June, 2006

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白人听不懂

Thursday, June 29th, 2006

(That is from a friend’s T-shirt if anyone was wondering)

I am presently in a fit of reading. I just finished Mao: The Unknown Story by Jung Chang & Jon Halliday, which I loved. I have very little respect for the man and reading a biography that shows just how bad he is depressing yet enjoyable. But the historian in me cringes at the laid back, un-cited, opinionated approach Jung Chang takes with her writting. I also recently finished reading The River at the Center of the World. I hated the author, Simon Winchester, for the first half of the book, but ended the book feeling lukewarm towards the guy. I can’t stand foreigners in China who think it is more interesting to write about lonely British folks living in China and bad cab drivers rather than write about, I don’t know, the society you are travelling in. His writing showed a feeling that the Chinese are the superior west, and his writing is overly romantic and badly formed. I don’t recommend this book. On the other hand a book I am reading now, The New Chinese Empire by Ross Terrill, is a fantastic read of Chinese history and it’s effect on today’s Chinese government and its relation to the outside world. I’m also half way through Annie Proulx’s The Shipping News, a great read that is making me want to do some creative writing again.

Chinese class is speeding by and my chinese vocabulary is expanding like a sponge. I’m also meeting loads of folks, Chinese and western. Kunming is friendlier than ever. Though I think I am done with the large Chinese night culbs here, at least for the time being. Right now I can’t decide whether or not to get an electronic chinese dictionary. I bought a copy of 兄弟 (Brothers), a popular Chinese novel by the author of To Live (which was made into a movie by Zhang Yimou), and I thought that an electronic dictionary that lets one write the characters you need looked up could be helpful. I’ll just mull it over for the time being.

My house hunt has begun. I never planned to live in the international students dorm forever and my lease runs out at the end of July. So I am starting to look for places, with much help from fluent speakers. My first vacation also starts in July and my mind is full of ideas of where to go. One thought is the new Qinghai-Tibet Railroad, the highest in the world. Who knows.

On a more comedic note, the Comedy Central sketch comedy show Strangers With Candy has a full length movie coming out. Just hope a pirated DVD comes to Kunming soon.

Just wanted you to see what I see

Monday, June 26th, 2006

View of Dec. 1st street

The Ruthless Exploitation of the Labouring Masses

Saturday, June 24th, 2006

It has been awhile since I last posted. My days feel so filled right now, very different from summers in suburban America.
Anyway, a week ago today my group from UVM was invited to a Chinese wedding for a teacher that had worked in Vermont for the past year. We all got invitations, reminiscent of the Valentines day cards school children give each other. The event was a mixture of modern day China, a Las Vegas floor show, and with just a hint of Chinese tradition. It all started with a ceremonial walk around the block for the bride and groom (the bride in a red sedan and the groom on a horse). Then the important part began: dinner. At least a couple hundred people crowded into the banquet hall and ate, drank and watched the show on stage. Words don’t do it all justice, if you want to can see pictures here.
There is more to say but my lunch is finished and I’m still tired from last night. 再见!

The Curious Cops of China

Sunday, June 18th, 2006

Kunming feels more outlawish than Beijing and other high profile cities in China. There is graffitti everywhere, young chinese wear T-shirts that proclaim: “I Grow Marijuana”, anyone seems to be allowed to sell anything on the street, and young street kids are found roaming all parts of the city. Bootleg DVDs are a mainstay of the Chinese retail market, and Kunming is no different. Usually DVD stores have agreements with the local police so that when the PSB, Public Security Bureau, does an inspection of DVD stores the stores know in advance and close for the day. Here in Kunming I’ve found something even more startling: A bootleg DVD store right next to a large police station. The store is on Culture/Western Ave. and everytime I pass it I can’t help but notice the ironic pairing of bootleg Da Vinci Code and X-Men 3 copies with the throngs of smoking policemen and flashing lights. The store must have very good guanxi with their neighbors.

DVD store/Cop station

Getting Better All The Time

Sunday, June 18th, 2006

Decemer 1st street (looking south)

It is Sunday afternoon. Life in Kunming is feeling more and more like I am a Kunming resident and less like I’m a foreigner. This was my third weekend here and my fourth in the country. I recognize my surroundings, see familar faces when I buy my bottled water, and walk through traffic as if it were nothing more than a slight breeze blowing by me. These past weeks here in Kunming have been reminding me of a scene from the fantastic movie L’auberge Espagnole. In the movie a French college student comes to Barcelona and walking the foreign streets of the city for the first time, confused and bewildered, he sees his confident future self doing the same without the confusion. I’m somewhere in that transition at the moment. I still have yet to see huge sections of the city, but my small section here in the northeast of the city has become my good and proper home. Hooray!

Yesterday was a damn full day. We went on a school sponsored trip to Yunnan’s big natural tourist attraction, the Stone Forest (石林). I had visited two years ago with my high school exchange group. It is a dramitically beautiful place, which gets boring after a couple hours. The two hour ride from Kunming was great as well. Such a green vibrant land Yunnan is.
That night me and some of my classmates started to appreciate Yunnan’s wine selection, most notably “Yunnan Red Wine”. Needless to say it was a good night of fun and frivolity.

I also want to wish my father a very special and relaxing Father’s day today. Happy Father’s Day Popi!

Residence permit

Thursday, June 15th, 2006

I’m getting my Residence permit! This means that I will be a certified foreign resident of China and will be able to leave the country and return. I’m pumped because the last two times I came to China I was just on a student visa and unable to leave the mainland. In fact, I’ve never been to any other Asian countries outside of China. Thailand, Indonesia and Hong Kong tickle my fancy, but who knows the cheaper mainland might just seem a better choice in a few months.

To get the Residence permit I had to go through an intensely thorough physical examination, which I just got back the results from (no syphillis!). The exam consited of three blood samples, urine sample, ultrasound, EKG, chest X-Ray, blood pressure, vision, mental disorder check… there might have been more tests but I forget.

My new bike from Carrefour is turning out to be my new best friend, even though the pedal fell off (it was fixed in a jiffy). My classmate Brendan and I recently went on a 4 hour ride to the west mountains of Kunming. The city become vastly different once we left the center and this new under-developed semi-rural China opened before our eyes. It is ripe for discovery. Next on the list: a day long bike ride this Sunday (we’re going to see just how far we can go). After this who knows, might go to Tibet (or at least the border)!

The World Cup, new purchases and homosexuality

Sunday, June 11th, 2006

The World Cup (世界杯)started friday, as everyone knows. Soccer is wildly popular in China, though not as popular as basketball, and according to the China Daily the Chinese will tune into the games 10 billion times. My group from UVM was excited as well and we decided to go to the Camel Bar friday night to watch the first game, which started at midnight here. The bar was packed, people were stacked in everywhere. The Chinese were happily drinking beer and smoking cigarettes in the hours prior to and during the first game. It was a very fun experience. I can’t wait till midnight on monday when America plays the Czech Republic, the favored team to win Unfourtunetly I have a test on tuesday, but that is a miniscule event compared to the World Cup.

I have made two big purchases this weekend: a cellphone and a new bike. The cellphone cost me 478 yuan and is on the cheaper end of the spectrum. It can text chinese characters, which is a ton of fun to do. The bike I bought today at Kunming’s large and central Carrefour (the French Wal Mart, which is HUGE in China and is a great place to buy everything under the sun, lose a child and get something stolen) is a yellow road bike made by Top Image. It cost 583 yuan assembled, $72 dollars, and hopefully won’t get stolen and will last me the next 6 months. I’m very excited to take it for a long ride, especially since there are beautiful mountains surrounding Kunming.

If you didn’t already know homosexuality is illegal in China. The Chinese will also argue vehemently that homosexuality does not exist in China, oh so wrong! Danwei.org alerted me to a recent article in the China Daily, the daily english newspaper here, about homosexual adoption in China. It also outlines the government’s stance on homosexuality. It contains such juicy quotes as:

From the Chinese medical point of view, the China Mental Disorder Classification and Diagnosis Standard classifies homosexuality as sexual obstruction, belonging to psychiatric disease of the kind of sexual psychological barrier.

In terms of the Chinese traditional ethics and customs and habits, homosexuality is an act violating public morality and therefore not recognized by the society

Danwei article

From Salvador’s Bar/Cafe

Wednesday, June 7th, 2006

I’m not doing the best job of updating this blog, but believe me I’ve been busy. My summer vacation has quickly turned into a busier less relaxing semester of sorts. Of course I love it (especially free wireless internet, cheap food and cheap beer). My course load during the school week has become rather large. My Chinese classes, an hour of speaking and two hours of textbook learning everyday, are great and they will make me an amazing Chinese speaker by December, but it is the other obligations which are filling up my schedule like never before. Unlike the last two times I came to China I don’t feel like I have free time, it’s learning time.

I take two classes I don’t like. Calligraphy (4 hours a week) and TaiJiQuan (everyday at 7:30 AM….). These classes are actually fine, and I could use the credit, but with the amount of Chinese homework and time spent with my Chinese buddy and language partner they seem unnecessary. I already introduced my buddy, Qiu Yonglei, but I also have a language partner, Zhang Fei, whom I meet with three times a week to learn and practice Chinese. The time I spend with these guys is extremely rewarding and I love it. My schedule just feels very full and I don’t think I will get off campus much during the school week, ah well.

I got my hair cut today. What a wonderful experience. Before I was always wary of getting my hair cut in China, since the Chinese have no such thing as blonde western hair. But really it was fine, and I might even go back just to get my hair washed. The whole thing cost me 15 kuai ($2) and hair saloons seem to be the place for open minded boys to hang out. My friend Caitlin went with me and got a whole new hairstyle, which she finds less than perfect. It really is easier being male here.

Has anyone read “Eichmann in Jerusalem”? I did for school, good book. The New York Times just reported that the CIA knew he lived in Argentina in 1958 and did nothing. Interesting.

Writing from Kunming

Saturday, June 3rd, 2006

It has been only 8 days since I last posted here, but it feels like it’s been a month. My life in China started in Beijing, I then took a train to Shanghai, then another train to Xi’an and finally flew to Kunming where I will be living for the next 6 months.
The Beijing-Shanghai-Xi’an trip was a suicidal rush of tourist sites, restaurants and not enough sleep. That’s now over (thank God). We saw so many sites and ate so many kinds of food, looking back on it everything seems like a blur. I can’t seperate the days in my mind. Most of the sites I had seen before, and even Kunming has a familiar feel to me (I visted in 2004), but for my fellow classmates everything was new. The smells, beggars, Chinese girls, buses, beer, chicken heads and everything else is new to them and it has been interesting watching them experience it for the first time. Some are doing a better job than others, and I know I shouldn’t judge but frankly some people’s attitude is starting to piss me off. You make your time in China what it is and if you want to focus on the negatives and feel lik shit that’s your choice. To be clear I couldn’t be happier here.
Though the grand tour of China was great and full of interesting incidents I’d rather people just look at my photos (Flickr Photos). What I really want to talk about is Kunming. I thought that I had it made in Burlington Vermont and Beijing, but Kunming really trumps them all. I’ve read great things about Hangzhou, Shanghai, and Dalian but for me Kunming has quickly risen to the top of my favorite cities. The sky is clear, a rare occurance in Beijing, the people happy, the weather always at the right temperature and my school is wonderful.
Our first day here we spent 3 hours at Kunming’s main branch of Bank of China, a place I loath. But with that over we ate a big banquet met our teachers and hit the Camel Bar. We’ve also been paired with language partners who are graduate students at Yunnan Normal University (云南师法大学). My language partner is Qiu Yonglei, a 32 year old Chinese masters major with a wife and four year old daughter in Jiangxi province, he’s great. Today we hit the sites here in Kunming: Green lake, Flower and Bird Market, and Wal-Mart (check out the photos). The photos are loading slowly here at Salvador’s (an American owned bohemian cafe with wireless internet and homemade ice cream), so it may be awhile till the photos come online. Anyway, all the Qingdao beers and ample Chinese food are starting to make me tired so I think I may walk back to the international student dorm. But I will update this blog more regualrly and on monday I start classes so I will surely write about that. Night.