May, 2009

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Sea Turtle Found in Local Restaurant

Sunday, May 31st, 2009

Huaihua, where I live, is hundreds and hundreds of miles from the sea.  So I was particularly surprised to recently find a sea turtle sitting in a restaurant down the road from my school. The restaurant has rows of fish tanks that you can see from the road showcasing their impressive collection of seafood.  As far as I know they are the only seafood restaurant in the city.

How much does it cost?  I don’t know but more than I would ever pay, that’s for sure.  The sad creature is a stinging reminder that the Chinese often enjoy eating the rare and expensive just because they are that, rare and expensive.  The southern Chinese have reputation for this, one I’m afraid is well deserved (I even ate a viper’s gall bladder once, not to mention muntjac and stone frog).

Is this a sign that Huaihua is becoming a developed city?  I think so.   When you have customers in a landlocked province willing to buy sea turtles for dinner there must some well-heeled people living in the neighborhood.   One of those weird culinary signs that life is changing here.  This can also be seen in the city’s first McDonalds being built and the new French wine bar that just opened.

Sea Turtle in Chinese Restaurant, Hunan

Dinner?

Thoughts on Being Gay in China

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009

Yes, I am a gay man living in China.  This is not something I normally advertise (so why post it online stupid!), but I am also no coward and certainly not in the closet.  I’ve found that Chinese gay life rarely gets written about and that needs to change.  With this blog that change begins now.

同性恋 - Homosexual in Chinese

Same + Sex + Love

Click to continue »

Education in China: Creativity in the Classroom

Friday, May 22nd, 2009

Being both a high school teacher here in Huaihua, Hunan and a former Chinese high school student (This was at the Beijing Jingshan school, a public and renowned high school (see some photos from my time there here)) I like to ponder the education system of China.  Now, I know foreigners in China have a nasty habit of constantly thinking about how they would change this or that if they ran, for example, a Chinese school or even China itself – I’m certainly guilty of this sometimes, though I try to keep it to myself – but in regards to education I try to be more of a realist.  There are problems with the education system of China but as a student and now as a teacher I am constantly surprised and excited by the students and teachers.  School administrations, on the other hand, almost never seem to impress me.  My point is that I’m not one way of the other when it comes to China’s education system, there are good things and bad things about it and things that seemingly cannot be changed.  Today I wanted to write about creativity and critical thinking in the classroom and what I’ve learned about Chinese students and their teachers.

School Sports Meeting Huaihua

I’m a big fan of The Atlantic’s former China correspondent James Fallows.  While he may be leaving (already left?) China he still blogs about this country all the time, and always brings up interesting stories and topics.  Recently he’s been writing about the Chinese education system, specifically on the nationwide standardized college entrance examination the Gaokao (高考).  See his collected posts on Chinese education here.  This exam is the only way a Chinese high school student can get into a university, and then only a university chosen by the exam’s controllers (i.e.: the Chinese government).  This is a massive and seriously life altering exam that has a big trickle down effect on how students are taught in high school.  Lately Fallows has been posting the thoughts of both foreigners and Chinese on the exam and it’s effects on the education system.  Very interesting stuff.

By talking about the Gaokao and the ideas of college entrance reform in China Mr. Fallows also brings up the bigger issue of the way Chinese schools educate their students.  This is something I think about everyday while I teach high school students here in Huaihua.  I am a volunteer teacher at my school and this affords me almost no oversight on how I teach.  My classes use no textbook, have no final exam, and almost no one comes in to watch.  This is an odd set up for a foreigner teaching in China and it thankfully lets me teach the way I want to, with due discretion of course.  The thing is still I find myself teaching to students who have very in-the-box (as opposed to outside-the-box) thinking and this affects what I am able to do in the classroom.  There is a clear lack of willingness to be outspoken and creative in the Chinese classroom.

In my class I often have the students group up and work on a project to present to the class.  I always specify that I want creative answers and I try to set the project up so that they have to use critical thinking to complete it.  Yet their final projects usually end up looking the same.

For example this week I’ve been teaching my students about environmental problems the world faces.  While discussing the problems the students answered questions like “where does air pollution come from?” with stock answers they knew: factories (oddly cars never came up until I mentioned them).  Easy stuff.  Then the questions, “why is this bad for the environment?” and “what can we do to help solve this problem?” brought the same by-the-book answers.  They would look in their geography textbook for the right answer and didn’t think through the problems and how they are caused and could be fixed.  Air pollution, my students said every time, could be solved by planting trees and enacting stronger laws against polluting.  The idea that society’s need for cars should be questioned or that we should live with less stuff was rarely brought up.  Every class gave me the same answers, mostly bland simple ones.  Through the week I cheered on the idea of creativity and thinking for themselves but everyone preferred to write the easiest and most basic answers, even my best and brightest English students.  The students wanted to complete the worksheet, the quality of the answers wasn’t a priority.  There were some notably creative answers though, such as moving to Mars or the very Maoist idea of lowering the population through a world war.  While doing the least to achieve a decent grade is the norm for high school students the world over in China there often seems to be no other path taken.  In general my class projects always yield answers that stay well within the lines, and the students are proud and happy with this and don’t quite understand my disapproval with getting the same textbook answer over and over again.

Another example of this was written by a foreign teacher in China and reminds me similar experiences I’ve had with group skits in class.  They write about a class project where the students had to make a radio school skit (check it out here):

My eighth graders had a unit studying the radio, so I asked them to write their own radio shows. I put them in groups and told them to write 3-4 segments, including at least one conversation. Their English is more than good enough for an activity like this, and I did get several good shows, including a show where the news segment had some fake news and ended with the reader telling listeners that “some of this news may be fake, and we are not responsible for what people do after hearing this information”.

I also, however, got an enormous number of segments taken word-for-word from their books or newspapers; news items read directly from something they printed out or a magazine article; etc. Several students attempted to make conversations by having people alternate reading sentences from one of these printouts. The most extreme was when one group took a printout from a radio show and “wrote” it by changing the names. None of this was hidden – they know that I’ve seen the books and newspapers they were quoting from, and sometimes they would show me a magazine article and ask me how to pronounce one of the words. Often they’d understand the very general gist of the story but not the details, and it was very apparent in the way they said the words.

One foreigner teacher wrote on one of Jame’s Fallow’s posts: “I decided that one of the things that stifles creativity in China more than anything else was high school.”  Asking for creativity and critical thinking of my students clearly goes against the grain of the school’s teaching methods.  The textbook is God and us teachers are seemingly just there to whip our students as they plod through every page.  Even the exam essays they have to write for some classes (the best are pasted on the classroom wall) seem to be lifeless arguments they have heard or read elsewhere.  They are given good grades for such work.

I used to teach four classes a week at local elementary schools and one day I saw a teacher admonish a 10 year old student for not making a paper cup music maker exactly as instructed in the textbook.  Unbelievable!  Where I come from teachers usually never even used those stupid textbook projects and certainly never got mad at us over the way we made a class art project.  The same rules apply to English homework.  Never mind that the homework is almost entirely fill-in-the blank multiple choice questions on insignificant minor grammatical points (I can never seem to help my students on these, they want the right answer and I always see the grammar problem as having none), but when they do actually have to write sentences for each chapter’s final “creative” project the instructions have a hold-your-hand attitude that stifles almost any free thinking.

I’m getting a little harsh in my argument.  Chinese students are not uncreative, not at all.  They’re just rarely asked to be so by their teachers and parents.  The goal is always a perfect test score and spending time arguing about a grammatical point or trying out a new self-thought argument in an essay seems wrong when a teacher could just teach the right answer and the student memorize it.  Chinese education has been for a long time and still is a system where students parrot what their teacher teaches them.  At least for the most part.

I should point that due to the Gaokao college entrance examination a students high school grades don’t matter in the end.  If you are a mathematics genius you could fail your math class and still go to a good university.  I know students who have done that, though my students’ parents watch their child’s school grades pretty closely.  The parents even try to bribe us teachers sometimes.  This means that even if a teacher does ask his or her students to think creatively the student doesn’t really need to if they don’t want to.

A few weeks ago one of my classes showed me a video of their class dance routine for a school competition (one of the few times they get out of the classroom).  It was like a bad Backstreet Boys music video, except more lifeless and with everyone wearing matching shirts.  It made a cheerleading routine look like freestyle interpretative dance.  They were extremely proud of their work and had won the competition but I really didn’t see much of any creativity in it.  To them there was a right and a wrong way to do a dance and the line between the two was etched in stone.  Practice and memorization of a strict set of rules seems, to them, the best way to do almost anything.

My students board at the school and fr0m 7:30 AM until 9:30 PM are in a classroom (with short breaks for lunch and dinner).  Their life is incredibly insular and what they learn from us teachers can only be applied to exams in the classroom.  Forget about connecting English to real life (let’s learn about UFOs!) or seeing biology in action outside of reading about it in a textbook.  The fact that their knowledge is only used in getting a test grade severely limits how creative they are in using it.

James Fallows brought up a story in the People’s Daily from this month about the Chinese high school science team that competed at the recent Intel International Science and Engineering Fair.  The Chinese team won some minor honors but failed in to win any big awards.  Mr. Fallows writes:

What’s the problem?  The article discussed some obvious barriers — language, resources — but quoted a number of Chinese authorities saying that the real problem lay in the way Chinese schools taught people to think for themselves — or, didn’t. Too much emphasis on rote, detail, and following procedures; too little encouragement to reflect about the process of discovery.

Yep.

So after months of teaching in this environment of rote memorization and days spent locked in a classroom I was happy to read on Mr. Fallow’s blog that what Chinese students actually want is:

- more of a connection to the real world. They want to have the chance to do community service near their schools, such as tutoring and helping to take care of their elderly, and they also want to take their classes outside of their schools. One of the most impressive examples a student gave me was for an environmental science class being built around an effort to clean up a river, stream, or forest near the school.

- the chance for social development. They want clubs and sports, but they also want things like more free time to spend with their friends, school dances, and for dating to be allowed on campuses. I even had a student say, in full seriousness, that he thought there should be a class teaching students how to interact with the opposite sex.

As an aside, when I was a student at the Jingshan school my American classmates and I tried to start a Friday school dance during lunch.  It lasted all of two weeks before we found ourselves locked out of the gym by the administration, who had never told us that they were against the idea (communication in Chinese schools could be a whole other post).  Dancing and socializing go against the aims of a Chinese school.

I have a lot of hope for the future.  As I see it Chinese education can only get better.  The students I teach don’t make me sad for their future and there are not simply test taking robots, even if that’s the way they are taught.  My days as a student at the Jingshan school in Beijing showed me Chinese teachers (sometimes) making their students think critically and creatively.  While Jingshan is kind of a flagship school for public education in China (and therefore better than most in this respect) I can’t help but think that the pace of development and increasing international competition for Chinese students will bring about change in the way students are taught here.  Here’s hoping!

Reading: Falling in Love With China And Your Career

Thursday, May 21st, 2009

I had never heard of Aimee Barnes’ blog until today when, through a Twitter friend (Hey!  You too can follow my Twitter account.), I stumbled on her post about making a career out of a love of China.  She brings up some interesting career opportunities and some important things to consider doing to achieve a lasting career here.  It was worth a read for me and maybe for you too.

Photos from Shanghai

Thursday, May 21st, 2009

My trip last weekend had equal parts business professionalism and late night insanity.  After seeing the office of my future internship, located in the swank suit-and-tie filled neighborhood of Xintiandi (新天地), and meeting the people that work there I relaxed and enjoyed the the young glamorous life of Shanghai.

Shanghai
The view from the roof of my hostel. Crazy, no?

Shanghai
A wider view.

Shanghai
A quiet street in Xintiandi. Right next to my future office.

Shanghai
One of the fancy cafes of Xintiandi.

Shanghai
The office building and the little park next to it.

Nanjing street
Nanjing street in the bustling center of the city.

Teach Your Children Mandarin

Monday, May 18th, 2009

John over at the always enjoyable Sinosplice blog (a must for students of Chinese) just wrote a post about an interesting visual representation of the world’s language speakers.  It was produced by IBM’s “Many Eyes” project.

Language Bubbles

You readers are, of course, intelligent attractive people so you no doubt already knew that learning Mandarin was the way to go.  You’re never to old to start!  Right now I’m revamping my Mandarin studies, as I stay in China longer it’s really becoming necessary knowledge.  Plus, with my awesome new internship in Shanghai starting August 1st (in an all Chinese speaking office) I plain need to keep my Mandarin up. I’m trying to follow that classic Maoism pasted on classroom walls all over China: 好好学习 天天向上.   Study hard and make progress everyday.

Shanghai: A Great City and My Future Home

Friday, May 15th, 2009

Today has got to be one of the greatest day’s of the year for Shanghai.  Not too hot not too cold and with a slight breeze and a bright sun, everyone looks happy and content.  The city never looked better. For me though, the city would look amazing no matter what the weather.

Today I visited the offices of my new employer.  For a year (starting August 1) I will have an internship at the Shanghai office of a fabulous American law firm right in the center of Xintiandi (新天地), which is Shanghai’s answer to Boston’s Newbury street and New York’s Wall Street and Fifth Avenue.  It’s really a dream come true and I can’t wait for this new turn in my life.  Now, I must go celebrate.

Shanghai and Other News

Wednesday, May 13th, 2009

First up, as everyone here in China knows yesterday was the one year anniversary of the devastating Sichuan earthquake last May that killed 80,000 people and left millions homeless.  While the earthquake could physically be felt here in western Hunan when it hit Sichuan the anniversary was less noticeable to me.  There were fireworks – the Hunan answer for any occasion, good or bad – and I know that the speech given during the day’s morning exercise was in remembrance of those who were killed.  Other than that though it was a normal school day, no parades or assemblies of any kind.

There is so much online about the earthquake and the anniversary so I’ll leave that to you to discover if you’re interested.  However I would highly recommend this conscientiously made video called “Afterquake” about the devastated region and the music sung by the local children.  The Shanghaiist wrote a piece about it (video included).  If you are in China watch the video on Tudou instead, it’s faster.

This week has been my first full week of teaching after being sick and then recovering while showing a movie in class, which my students loved and gave me plenty of reading time.  Teaching is one hell of a tiring profession, that’s a big lesson from my year here.  Teaching in Hunan’s sub-tropical hot ‘n humid weather means being stuck in a sweltering BO scented room (no air con) with 60 students, often with the windows closed so we can use the projector.  It gets old after awhile.  I must say though, compared to showing a movie or lying in bed sick teaching is definitely more enjoyable.  And now with only 4 or so weeks left of classes I want to make sure I get in all the important lesson plans I’ve been saving.

Tomorrow, after my last classes of the week (Hoorah for three day weekends!), I’m heading to Changsha so that can catch an early morning plane to glamorous Shanghai.  This trip is to (hopefully) solidify my future job in Shanghai after a short summer in America.  I’m getting excited just thinking about living in city of Shanghai’s caliber.  Besides the insane air quality Shanghai has many modern day comforts like micro brewed beer, cheese, and quality live music (Ratatat is playing next week and Ghostface Killah is hitting up the city in June!).  It should be a fun weekend.

A Story of an Illness in China

Monday, May 11th, 2009

Chinese hospital bed

As an American child an illness like the flu or a stomach ache often didn’t seem dire to me at all, in fact if I missed school the illness would sometimes be welcomed and enjoyed.  In those times I knew I was young and healthy and that my parent’s health insurance would allow competent and well paid doctors to solve whatever problem I had.  I can’t ever remember feeling terribly scared about being sick when I was a kid.  Now I’m older, though certainly young enough to be slightly cocky in the way I live, and illness is at the least a big annoyance and at worse a fearful and unknown hell.  In China illness takes on new dimensions of worry what with the less than perfect medical system.  Though believe me when I say that the Chinese medical system is very good and has been good to me, this story was an anomoly in almost every way.  I got to go down the hellish unknown road of an illness this Spring and it is without a doubt one of the most intense experiences of my time as a teacher in Hunan.

I don’t want to give away what I had just yet, the path to figuring that out is what made this long drawn out adventure so absolutely interesting and scary.  In March the American woman who had taught at my school here in Huaihua last year visited for a week.  It was 6 days and nights of non-stop banquets and jovial drinking with friends.  On top of that I was teaching 16 lessons that week.  She left on a Friday and that morning I woke up feeling miserable.  I reasoned that I had blown my immune system over the course of the hectic week of partying and figured I could cure myself with a weekend of sleep, relaxation, and lots of water and Tylenol.  I found myself completely exhausted to a degree I wasn’t used to that weekend, I was acting like an old who needs to stop every few steps.  All of that didn’t bother me too much since I am young and figured whatever the bug I had was it was nothing that I couldn’t fix.  Monday rolled around and I still felt horrible, maybe even worse than before.  I had an easy lesson for my students that week, having them prep question for my sister’s visit the following week, but nonetheess teaching was an unbearable chore that left me wasted.

After my first class Tuesday my body was noticeably giving away, everything took too much energy.  Even walking out of the school to eat was a massive chore and left me in bed for hours between trips anywhere.  Tuesday morning was the last time I would teach for two weeks.  On Wednesday I went to the local hospital, the Number Five People’s Hospital.  On the way there I learned that the teachers at my school never use that hospital, it has a crummy reputation.  The doctor there told me I was fine and would be okay after some rest.  He gave me vitamin C tablets.

I spent the rest of that week trying to recover, my mind focused on getting better for my sister Becky’s visit.  I downed an obscene amount of Tylenol, ate basically nothing (really), stayed in bed all day watching movies and went through a full water cooler’s worth of water in 7 days.  On Friday I went to Changsha to pick up my sister.  I was still sick but determined to make her visit as I had imagined it.  I still wasn’t eating more than a few bits.  Nausea and a sore throat were added to my list of symptoms.  On Sunday we took a bus back to Huaihua and I still felt horrible.

That first night back home I realized I needed to go to the hospital.  Next day spent all day in the Huaihua No. One hospital.  Nothing was discovered until they sent me to the infectious diseases building.  There they told me that I had a serious infection “in some organ” (they didn’t know which) and needed to stay in the hospital over night.  I called my field director told him I wanted to come to Changsha, Hunan’s capital, for better care.  My sister’s visit was unraveling at the seams.  I packed enough clothes and contacts for two days in Changsha.  I was hopeful of a quick diagnosis and recovery, a foolhardy belief looking back on it.  My throat by this point was becoming increasingly out of whack and talking or eating (not that I did that) became a very painful experience.

We took the early bus back to Changsha, I was out of it in every way.  Arriving in Changsha at noon we hiked around the busy metropolis in the mid-day sun while we searched for a hotel that hadn’t opened yet.  I sat down every chance I had.  Got a room at my old hotel from last summer and taxied to the Provincial People’s Hospital, my home for the next 5 days.

The first day was pretty easy, just got some antibiotics and saline solution injected into me in the emergency ward.  The nurses like my plump veins.  Only took 5 and a half hours too, with ample time waiting in lines to first pay and then pick up my prescriptions.  Got dinner while in a lucid feverish state, but I was hopeful and glad Becky was able to see more than the inside of Chinese hospitals.

Over the next couple of days my doctors (they changed almost daily) kept changing my prescription, apparently nothing was working (Hmmmm. A warning sign, no?).  Started getting daily blood tests, watched as my white blood cell count skyrocketed.  Every single test they ever gave me came back with a sad looking doctor and bad news, it was almost comical.  By day three the doctors were showing signs of worry and didn’t understand why the antibiotics weren’t working.  My family back home was worried as well while they tryed to figure out exactly what my medicine was.  My field director began to show signs of fatigue and I slept all day on my rock hard bed while my sister read books.  McDonalds milk shakes became my best friend and I watched the swarms of sick people around me.

New crazy diagonisises became a daily occurrence.  Strep throat became tonsillitis, and then infected lungs, which became an infected heart and then TB, finally ending in a scrapping-the-bottom-of-the-barrel HIV diagnosis (no, I don’t have that).  I bought new glasses because my insufficient supply of contacts ran out and I wore the same filthy/smelly/sweat soaked clothes day after day.  Two fellow American teachers, Tara and Maria, visited me sometime during the week and were a Godsend.  They brought instant chicken soup and hot chocolate, filling a void I had due to complete lack of American comfort food.

Thursday night (after 3 days at the hospital) was the high tide of my misery.  The hospital refused to let me take any pain killer whatever, it would affect my fever and they enjoyed watching it climb – seemingly just to see how high it would get.  I couldn’t swallow water anymore because of the pain.  So that night with frozen water bottles in my armpits (to lower the fever) and IV tubes stuck into my Heroin-addict-hands I slept at the hospital.  At that point I was fully nuts and deeply worried about what would happen to me.  Crazy scenarios popped into my head about being quarantined with Bird Flu or being evacuated to America.  At that moment of sadness while my doctor thought I was asleep she talked to my field director behind the curtain saying in a serious tone that it was very possible that I had Tuberculosis.  I lied staring at my IV dripping, full of despair.

On Friday with a high tide fever of 102 I flew to fly to Beijing to seek better care.  The hospital was American run and, to me, was like a 5 start hotel (with prices to match).  I started feeling better the minute I learned I had Mononucleosis.  Yes, I have Mono.  It only took the Beijing hospital an hour or so to figure that out.  I kept thinking: “What the hell had they been doing in Changsha??”  I flew back to Changsha the next day and took a bus to Huaihua.  I was still sick, though thankfully out of my life as a patient with an unknown disease and rare bacterial infection.

The writer Katherine Ann Porter said in a 1965 interview regarding her bout of Spanish influenza, which she got while recovering from Tuberculosis in Texas in 1919, “I just simply divided my life, cut across it like that.”  Now, I was never close to death but the long nature of my illness and the fact that I stayed bed ridden and insular after returning from Beijing for weeks and weeks brought a clean break from my life before my illness.  Truthfully, before I was sick I had been lost.  Life in Huaihua was annoying me and my job teaching at my school lacked the enjoyment it had before.  My goals to learn Chinese, live in the present, and enjoy life alone in a far-off Chinese city were thrown aside and I wasted my days away.  Mono gave me plenty of time to think and realize how little time I have left here.  Right now I’m trying to act on those realizations.  At least I have a good story to tell.

Photograph from eyeofstanley on Flickr.

I’m Back!

Friday, May 8th, 2009

This blog has been under repair for the past month or so.  My apologies.  I had been hearing reports of people getting virus warnings when they visited the site, so I tried to upgrade the Wordpress software I use.  Unfortunately my skills as a blogger don’t really include technical aspects like tinkering with the site’s software, plus I was having problems with various parts of the site that left people at a loss for what was wrong.  Today after a few hours of hard work I figured it out and all is well again!  New posts coming soon, promise.