June, 2009

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I’m Comin’ Home

Saturday, June 27th, 2009

Today is my last full day in Huaihua. Right now I’m sitting in the middle of a half-clean apartment trying my best to fit everything I own into two suitcases. The weather today is just the way I like it: clear blue skies. The towering mountains in the distance are visible from my school and there is just the slightest breeze. The sun is bright and my students walk back to their Saturday classes (they have classes seven days a week) along the shade path under the trees. They call out to me: “Good afternoon teacher!” I’m going to miss that.

Tomorrow I take a bus to Changsha where I will see friends for a couple days before flying back to America. There will be a little break here on the blog until I settle myself back in the States. I have so much I haven’t posted about and thousands of photos I need to upload, which because of computer problems and a slow internet I haven’t been able to do yet. I promise I will get to all of it once I’m back home in Massachusetts. So long until then.

The “Homowives” of China

Saturday, June 27th, 2009

Not a term you here everyday “homowives,” tongqi 同妻 in Chinese, refers to heterosexual women married to gay men.  This is, of course, not a problem limited to China.  Even democratic countries like the United States and Iran have the same issue. In my last post on homosexuality in China I mentioned how many gay men I’ve met here are married or plan to marry a woman and raise a family.  This is due to the massive (MASSIVE!) pressure put on men of a certain age to get married and have children, hopefully a son.  This is basic Chinese tradition: the family is the most important social group and to continue the family line a son must marry and have a son.  Women are excluded from all of this because they leave their original family once they marry and join their husband’s family.  In today’s world where everyone in China is entitled to only one child, if that child is male he had best get married before 30 or an unthinkable amount of leverage will be exerted by his parents and nearly everyone else to force him to.  In China, as of right now, a gay man cannot easily come out of the closest and explain the situation to their family.  No get out of jail free card here.  As it turns out this means that 80% of gay men in China get married to women. Eighty freakin’ percent!

I was reading this translation on Shanghaiist the other day (a very pro-gay rights China blog, fyi) about this very subject.  It’s a blogpost written by the “renowned sexologist and sociologist” Li Yinhe (李银河), the original Chinese version is here.  She studied the phenomenon of Chinese homowives and brings to light their sad situation.  Here is the translation in full (via Yawning Bread):

I attended a forum that discussed the problem of ‘homowives‘. The so-called ’homowife‘ (tongqi 同妻) is the wife (qi 妻) of a homosexual (tongzhi 同志). It has been said that China has 20 million male homosexuals, of whom 80 per cent would marry a woman. These women are the ’homowives‘, and there are 16 million of them.

The ‘homowife’ phenomenon is a phenomenon unique to China, seldom witnessed in other countries. In other countries, homosexuals would remain single or live together or marry other homosexuals. Very few would enter into a heterosexual marriage. This difference comes about because Chinese culture places such a great emphasis on marriage and reproduction, as to make them compulsory.

During my visit to Hungary, I found out that only 10 per cent of people of marriageable age got hitched. The rest fell into three categories: single, cohabiting (living together), LAT (lovers who live apart). In such a society, gay people do not have any need at all to enter into a heterosexual marriage. People would not gossip about them and parents do not apply pressure. Unfortunately our Chinese culture is oppressive with its dictum on men and women having to get married when they reach a certain age and naming the lack of progeny as the most serious breach of filial piety – “there are three kinds of unfilial behaviour and the greatest is have no descendant”. This has compelled an entire community of male homosexuals to marry women to have children.

The condition for ‘homowives’ is extremely tragic. At the seminar, there were ‘homowives’ who burst into tears as they spoke, leading all of them to hug each other for a good cry. Most days, they wash their faces with tears. I heard what I considered the most shocking testimony that from a woman who told of how she even doubted her ability to attract men — why wouldn’t her husband even want to look at her or touch her? Am I really that unworthy as a woman? She assumed that all men would treat her like that, not knowing that this is far from the truth. She did not dream that her husband would be gay. Under the circumstances, even the most beautiful and accomplished woman would not arouse him.

Homowives have started to get organized in an effort to help themselves and help others. They have started a website and a helpline to assist fellow women who have fallen into the same predicament.

Their highest priority is to prevent women from marrying homosexuals, help those who suspect the sexual orientation of their boyfriends to analyse their situation better; and in the event that the other party is a confirmed homosexual, to dissuade the woman from entering a marriage with the man.

Secondly, they would like to extend a helping hand to those women who are already married to homosexuals and who would like a divorce. This includes helping them to make up their minds, relieving the pressure on them and reduce the financial and psychological damage that comes with divorce.

Thirdly, they would like to address the problems of homowives who do not want a divorce for a variety of reasons. This would include helping them to analyse the cost of keeping such a marriage going, how to communicate with their husbands and how to get along with their children.

They proposed a slogan: ‘Homowife ends with me’. This slogan is full of hurt and also extends concern to those who may follow in their footsteps. The slogan gives one a feeling that it is a noble cause.

I hope the majority of male homosexuals do not enter into heterosexual marriages any more and spare a thought for the feelings of the homowife.

Before you go I’d like to add my two cents.  First, as I said earlier this phenomenon is by no means just a Chinese issue but rather a global issue.  Secondly I’d like to introduce two gay friends of mine here in China (anonymously of course).  One is named Zhao, he is 41 years old, married and has a young child, the other is named Peng and is 27 years old unmarried but closeted.

Mr. Zhao found his wife through a matchmaker and barely knew her before they married; the wedding was planned by a friend and Mr. Zhao, from the start, placed little importance on his marriage.  They had a child while living at Mr. Zhao’s parents house, where they are now.  Mr. Zhao likes to drink way more than most Chinese people, but he has lots of friends (including some boyfriends) so going out drinking every night is easy.  And in fact he does go out and drink every night, often ignoring his obligations as a father and husband.  Not surprisingly Mr. Zhao spends very little time with his child or wife, whom he doesn’t particularly like and who doesn’t like him.  The wife asks for a seperation, which is fine by Mr. Zhao, no one wants a divorce.  They still live together.  The sad life Mr. Zhao, his wife, and their child have together will probably continue for a long time.

Mr. Peng is a successful man still in his twenties but deffinitely old enough to get pressure to find a wife from all directions.  Thus far his education and career, which he takes very seriously, have given him an easy out from the whole marriage idea.  His parents respect what he is doing and do not pressure him to get married.  Do they suspect he is gay?  He thinks not since that would probably lead to his mom trying to break open his skull with a brick.  He is from a younger generation than Mr. Zhao and has firmly decided never to marry a woman.  Mr. Peng can see why it is a dumb idea and from experience he know’s that is bad situation for the wife.  This knowledge isn’t limited to homosexual men and their wives either, straight men all over China have affairs and Mr. Peng has seen the problems that causes.

Mr. Peng is educated about homosexuality, comfortble with who he is, out to a few friends, reads and watches what life is like for gay men outside of China on the internet, and all of this has lead him to believe he can find the man of his dreams and lead a happy life.  However, he sees Chinese society’s issues surrounding homosexuality as irreversable and does not expect to ever come out to his parents or co-workers and sees a homosexual relationship as something that should be kept secret.

Where does this all lead?  From where I’m sitting it just doesn’t look too good for anyone.  When the modern gay rights movement in America started over 40 years ago the problem was the closet.  In today’s China we have the same problem.  Gay people cannot change anything, especially their own misery, unless they come out of the closet.  This is still an unthinkable step for most gay men in China and because of that there will be many many more homowives in China’s future, all living another form of misery caused by society’s intollerance.

An Update from the End of the Line

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

My pathetic lapse in blogging has been bothering me.  I now have nine days left here in Hunan before I fly back to the States for a month of summer vacation and there is so much I haven’t written about.  Unlike my last weeks in America before a move to China during my last month in China leaving has been on my mind in a big way and wrapping up my life here has been a full time job.  Though, to be sure, it has been a kick ass month.

For the past eight weeks or so my weekends have been spent traveling or hosting friends here in Huaihua.  Certainly a fun, though busy, way to spend one’s time.  On top of that my year of being a volunteer teacher in China ended last week.  The weather in Hunan is now at the Summer levels of heat and humidity characteristic of this sub-tropical region and it can only be described as oppressive.  After an extremely long, rainy and cool Spring the weather was a nice change but now doing anything outside of my air conditioned bedroom during the daytime is a sweaty and exhausting chore.  Even writing this post in my stifling office requires a towel to mop up my sweat.  My computer that has been slowly dying all year long seems even more disabled in this weather.

So, after my long absence here are some things that have happened this month.

My trip to Simeng (思蒙)


Simeng landscape

Almost unknown outside of western Hunan this small “scenic district” is nicknamed Little Guilin for its beautiful carst-like hills that surround a beautiful river and richly forested area full of fascinating plants and birds.  The air was fresh and after a year in a Chinese city being able to breathe deeply and enjoy the smells might just be my favorite memory from this trip.  The hills were made of a stone that is almost exactly like Boston pudding stone, which is all over my neighborhood back home.  I went with two fellow teachers from the grade I teach at my school (senior one).  It was my first time taking an overnight trip with any of my Chinese colleagues and it was a fine time.  My Chinese friends often have the bad habit of trying to help me do anything when I travel with them, even mundane tasks that I can easily handle in Chinese, and this was the case in Simeng too.  But Simeng is a very rural area and the dialect is not easily understood so it wasn’t as annoying as it could have been.  One great reason to travel with Chinese friends is that they open you up to experiences you never would have found on your own and traveling to Simeng, which is located in the Huaihua city Prefecture, was a great example of this for me.  I’ll try and post more pictures online if my computer doesn’t die.

The Gaokao (高考) College Entrance Exam

A little while back I wrote a post about the lack of creativity in the Chinese classroom.  One striking example of the Chinese education system’s disregard for critical thinking, creativity, and outspokenness is the nation college entrance exam known as the Gaokao.  This year it took place on June 7 and 8th in every high school across the country at exactly the same time.  It was my first time seeing the test from the viewpoint of a teacher who works in a Chinese school and there were a few things I noticed.

The school shuts down for the exam.  Anything that would create noise or be a distraction to the students taking the exam is put on hold.  Because of this I had a very nice break from teaching and my students all went home to see their families.  The daily bell system that my school uses to wake everyone up and mark the beginning and end of each class was turned off, the first time ever in over 10 months, and only some calming yoga-like music was played before the students took the exam.  There were about a dozen police officers that joined my school’s security personnel (all of whom were on duty for both days of the exam).  The police officers were mostly there to close down the street in front of the school and make sure there were no outside interferences during the test.  A large section of the campus was cordoned off and only the students taking the test and the test proctors, some of them were not teachers at the school and seemed to be government officials with the education department carrying impressive looking IDs around their necks.  The classroom buildings were decorated with colorful calligraphy to bring good luck to the students.

The students did not wear the school uniform.  I saw them at around seven in the morning and there was a general tenseness in the air that reminded me of my weekend mornings spent taking the SAT.  Unlike the SAT however this test really does determine a large part of their life.  You can only take it up to three times in your life and it decided what university you attend.  You do not pick what school you want to go to in China, you take a test and the government tells you where to go.  Public buses were used to ferry students from other schools and smaller towns to my school so they could take the test.  Some of the kids looked petrified though most were their usual calm selves.  They carried only a small see-through plastic case that held their pencils and what not.  Being found with a cell phone during the test gives you an automatic zero on the section you are taking.  Outside the closed gate anxious parents waited on the sidewalk that was lined with advertisements from private universities.

What was in the test this year?  Danwei did a nice summary of the big essay question found in this year’s test.  In Hunan the students had to write an essay with the title Stand on Tiptoe (踮起脚尖).

At the end of the day the police left, the barricades were lifted and the school looked like it’s old self, just oddly quiet and empty.

My Last Weeks of Teaching

After a year of teaching here in Huaihua this June has been my time to wrap up my year and say goodbye to my students.  During my second to last week of teaching I taught a class on stereotypes, something I have wanted to do all year but somehow put off until now.  Chinese students live in a world where everyone looks the same and because of this and other reasons Chinese students have pretty harsh stereotypes.  I’ve had students often tell me they don’t like so and so because he is black or they think so and so is very beautiful because of her white skin.  When as a teacher in China you admonish a student for saying such things they do not understand why you are angry at them.  Chinese teachers do not help the situation at all.  So I wanted to explain to my students what stereotypes are (they have never heard of the term) and why they can be wrong and harmful.  I think I got through to some of them, but still they can’t really understand the harm of a stereotype.  They’re constantly told all the different minorities of China get along just fine and at the same time they make fun of those same minorities for being different.  Even if they don’t make fun of those who are different there is a strong feeling with the Han Chinese that some people are better than others because of the way they look.

One thing I wanted to bring up was homosexuality.  In the end after talking to some people and thinking about it I did not.  I didn’t want to ask my school if it was okay, I didn’t want to deal with the possible aftermath of such a discussion and I didn’t want to single out the gay students (of which there a few I am aware of).  In the end though I think the biggest reason I didn’t talk about it was because I didn’t want my students to laugh at me and my sexuality.  Having a deep and honest discussion about such a subject is hard with Chinese 15 year olds.

I did however bring up Hitler.  Few Americans know just how loved this man is in China.  Nevermind his empire was a complete failure or that he killed millions and millions of people in mankind’s worst genocide my Chinese students think that he was a great leader and speaker.  A few of my students are fully obsessed with World War II and often show me the books they are reading about the era’s tanks or I find them carefully doodling the Nazi army’s flag in their Engliah textbook.  It’s always disconcerting when you bring up Hitler and a student jumps up and says: “I love him!”  I wanted to teach these kids a thing or two about this monster.  While my students love Hitler they also hold the Jewish people in the highest regard.  When I asked them for stereotypes they had of the Jews I got suggestions like: genius, rich, doctor, beautiful, business leader, and so on.  So I explained Hitler’s hatred of the Jews and how his idiotic stereotypes led to the Holocaust, which my students knew little about.  Still though I don’t it really changed their mind about Hitler’s greatness.  I mean, this is still the country where Mao is idolized after all he did.

My last week of classes was a time to relax and enjoy my last time at the front of the classroom.  Both the students and I took lots of pictures and I will post some of them soon.

Chinese Government Tries to Hide Dirty Past

Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009
The Goddess of Democracy

The Goddess of Democracy

Tomorrow is the big day.  It is the most sensitive anniversary of this year (so far): June 4th, the 20th anniversary of the Tian’anmen Square Massacre that brought the months long student protest for greater freedom and democracy to a bloody close.

This is actually a much smaller deal in China then you would think.  The reason is largely due to the fact that the younger generations, the high school and college students, have never heard about this dark day in Chinese history.  And if you do know anything about it your gut reaction is probably to be quiet, what with the Harmonious Society kick the government is on these days.  Back in 2004 when I was a outspoken and overzealous high school student in Beijing I brought up the protest with my host brother.  He had never heard of it.  Yet it turned out that he had been there as a toddler.  His parents, like many Beijing residents, went to the Square to give food to the protesting students, many of whom were holding a hunger strike.  My young host brother handed out popsicles.  Still though he had never learned of the protest until an American student had come to live with him 15 years later.

Of course the most lively discussion about the big anniversary is happening online.  Former dissidents have been promoting a campaign to have people wear white clothes on June 4th, white is the color of mourning in the Chinese culture.  There is already talk online that TV presenters are banned from wearing white (or black, or red) for the whole month of June.

A lot the discussion of the anniversary and what people are doing has been happening on Twitter.  So it was probably inevitable that Twitter was blocked yesterday, along with the Flickr photo sharing site and Hotmail (Hotmail is now back).  Many outspoken Chinese bloggers have been using Twitter as a nice uncensored alternative to the options available in China.  It is the first time Twitter was blocked. The New York Times has an article up about the recent wave of censorship in China.

First thing, this sucks.  I use these sites everyday.  All the photos on my blog are uploaded to Flickr, so now the blog looks rather naked from China.  I was getting really into Twitter too, though I must say a break from Twitter isn’t all that bad for my time management.  This recent wave of web site blockings (all in the name of creating a happy harmonious society) comes at the heels of many earlier attempts at censorship in the lead up to the anniversary.  Youtube was blocked over a month ago and as usual searching for websites related to the anniversary shuts down your access to Google and other sites.  In other forms of censorship pages from the International Herald Tribune were taken out of every issue entering the country and the BBC World News channel, which is available to many people in large cities like Beijing and Shanghai, found that it’s signal cut out whenever it brought up the Tian’anmen Square protest.  Geesh!  So much work you guys!  I wonder how many Party members it takes to unscrew the light bulb?

However the government, like a sloppy child hiding a mess from his mother, doesn’t actually manage to hold back the flow of information too well.  For instance this video is still available here in China.  These attempts at blatant censorship have also given the world media a lot to write and talk about and are incredibly noticeable and infuriating over here and not just to us American expats.  It seems to me that this campaign achieves nothing but to diminish the people’s trust in the Party and government.   Tomorrow I will have my own little protest by wearing white, but if anyone at my school asks me why I must lie.  (I have been banned from wearing white by an American.  It’s actually fine by me, giving voice to your political thoughts in China is just plain scary and often stupid (especially for a foreigner).  Ironically enough though it seems that half of the teachers at my school are wearing white.)  No wonder my students always say they love America because of its freedom.  They may not know anything about the Tian’anmen Square Protest and the bloody massacre that ended it but they’re not stupid.

One Month Left

Monday, June 1st, 2009

After 10 months living in Hunan I am down to my last month.  It has been a long and fantastic year teaching English in my Chinese high school.  Teacher here is certainly the most fascinating and rewarding job I’ve ever had in my life.  It’s been unforgettable.  Now with less than three weeks of teaching left and a calendar that’s more full than any I’ve yet had in Huaihua my life here is starting to feel like it won’t last forever.  Today I had my last Chinese lesson with my teacher 杨扬 and the English library I started up at my school is wrapping up and no longer lending out books.  The funny thing is while I’m excited to get home and see my friends and eat hamburgers and burritos living here has never felt so comfortable, so right.  I gotta make the most of my time left here.  It’s hard to look forward to my future in Shanghai, it feels so far away even though I’ll be moving there next month.  After such a steady and reliable life here in Hunan the changes that are coming up are hard to comprehend.  I’m going to miss this great province.

Fenghuang

Fenghuang, Hunan