Huaihua

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Christmas in China

Monday, December 21st, 2009

Huaihua Before Christmas

I was recently asked to contribute a blog post for enoVate, a Chinese “insights and design firm” based here in Shanghai.  The company’s focus is on the youth of China, the world’s most dynamic demographic, specifically what young Chinese enjoy doing and buying.  It’s a fascinating topic that is in such flux and so misunderstood (even by the Chinese) that you never really know what to say about it.  I am of the opinion that China’s youth are one of the biggest reasons modern day China is so damn exciting (take, for instance, the fact that China has the largest number of internet users in the world yet almost all are under the age of 30).  Right now the enoVate blog is doing a series on how Chinese youth celebrate Christmas.  My entry is about my Christmas last year in Huaihua, Hunan, where I used to teach English.

If you are interested my post written a year ago about Christmas in Huaihua can be found here.

I’m Comin’ Home

Saturday, June 27th, 2009

Today is my last full day in Huaihua. Right now I’m sitting in the middle of a half-clean apartment trying my best to fit everything I own into two suitcases. The weather today is just the way I like it: clear blue skies. The towering mountains in the distance are visible from my school and there is just the slightest breeze. The sun is bright and my students walk back to their Saturday classes (they have classes seven days a week) along the shade path under the trees. They call out to me: “Good afternoon teacher!” I’m going to miss that.

Tomorrow I take a bus to Changsha where I will see friends for a couple days before flying back to America. There will be a little break here on the blog until I settle myself back in the States. I have so much I haven’t posted about and thousands of photos I need to upload, which because of computer problems and a slow internet I haven’t been able to do yet. I promise I will get to all of it once I’m back home in Massachusetts. So long until then.

An Update from the End of the Line

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

My pathetic lapse in blogging has been bothering me.  I now have nine days left here in Hunan before I fly back to the States for a month of summer vacation and there is so much I haven’t written about.  Unlike my last weeks in America before a move to China during my last month in China leaving has been on my mind in a big way and wrapping up my life here has been a full time job.  Though, to be sure, it has been a kick ass month.

For the past eight weeks or so my weekends have been spent traveling or hosting friends here in Huaihua.  Certainly a fun, though busy, way to spend one’s time.  On top of that my year of being a volunteer teacher in China ended last week.  The weather in Hunan is now at the Summer levels of heat and humidity characteristic of this sub-tropical region and it can only be described as oppressive.  After an extremely long, rainy and cool Spring the weather was a nice change but now doing anything outside of my air conditioned bedroom during the daytime is a sweaty and exhausting chore.  Even writing this post in my stifling office requires a towel to mop up my sweat.  My computer that has been slowly dying all year long seems even more disabled in this weather.

So, after my long absence here are some things that have happened this month.

My trip to Simeng (思蒙)


Simeng landscape

Almost unknown outside of western Hunan this small “scenic district” is nicknamed Little Guilin for its beautiful carst-like hills that surround a beautiful river and richly forested area full of fascinating plants and birds.  The air was fresh and after a year in a Chinese city being able to breathe deeply and enjoy the smells might just be my favorite memory from this trip.  The hills were made of a stone that is almost exactly like Boston pudding stone, which is all over my neighborhood back home.  I went with two fellow teachers from the grade I teach at my school (senior one).  It was my first time taking an overnight trip with any of my Chinese colleagues and it was a fine time.  My Chinese friends often have the bad habit of trying to help me do anything when I travel with them, even mundane tasks that I can easily handle in Chinese, and this was the case in Simeng too.  But Simeng is a very rural area and the dialect is not easily understood so it wasn’t as annoying as it could have been.  One great reason to travel with Chinese friends is that they open you up to experiences you never would have found on your own and traveling to Simeng, which is located in the Huaihua city Prefecture, was a great example of this for me.  I’ll try and post more pictures online if my computer doesn’t die.

The Gaokao (高考) College Entrance Exam

A little while back I wrote a post about the lack of creativity in the Chinese classroom.  One striking example of the Chinese education system’s disregard for critical thinking, creativity, and outspokenness is the nation college entrance exam known as the Gaokao.  This year it took place on June 7 and 8th in every high school across the country at exactly the same time.  It was my first time seeing the test from the viewpoint of a teacher who works in a Chinese school and there were a few things I noticed.

The school shuts down for the exam.  Anything that would create noise or be a distraction to the students taking the exam is put on hold.  Because of this I had a very nice break from teaching and my students all went home to see their families.  The daily bell system that my school uses to wake everyone up and mark the beginning and end of each class was turned off, the first time ever in over 10 months, and only some calming yoga-like music was played before the students took the exam.  There were about a dozen police officers that joined my school’s security personnel (all of whom were on duty for both days of the exam).  The police officers were mostly there to close down the street in front of the school and make sure there were no outside interferences during the test.  A large section of the campus was cordoned off and only the students taking the test and the test proctors, some of them were not teachers at the school and seemed to be government officials with the education department carrying impressive looking IDs around their necks.  The classroom buildings were decorated with colorful calligraphy to bring good luck to the students.

The students did not wear the school uniform.  I saw them at around seven in the morning and there was a general tenseness in the air that reminded me of my weekend mornings spent taking the SAT.  Unlike the SAT however this test really does determine a large part of their life.  You can only take it up to three times in your life and it decided what university you attend.  You do not pick what school you want to go to in China, you take a test and the government tells you where to go.  Public buses were used to ferry students from other schools and smaller towns to my school so they could take the test.  Some of the kids looked petrified though most were their usual calm selves.  They carried only a small see-through plastic case that held their pencils and what not.  Being found with a cell phone during the test gives you an automatic zero on the section you are taking.  Outside the closed gate anxious parents waited on the sidewalk that was lined with advertisements from private universities.

What was in the test this year?  Danwei did a nice summary of the big essay question found in this year’s test.  In Hunan the students had to write an essay with the title Stand on Tiptoe (踮起脚尖).

At the end of the day the police left, the barricades were lifted and the school looked like it’s old self, just oddly quiet and empty.

My Last Weeks of Teaching

After a year of teaching here in Huaihua this June has been my time to wrap up my year and say goodbye to my students.  During my second to last week of teaching I taught a class on stereotypes, something I have wanted to do all year but somehow put off until now.  Chinese students live in a world where everyone looks the same and because of this and other reasons Chinese students have pretty harsh stereotypes.  I’ve had students often tell me they don’t like so and so because he is black or they think so and so is very beautiful because of her white skin.  When as a teacher in China you admonish a student for saying such things they do not understand why you are angry at them.  Chinese teachers do not help the situation at all.  So I wanted to explain to my students what stereotypes are (they have never heard of the term) and why they can be wrong and harmful.  I think I got through to some of them, but still they can’t really understand the harm of a stereotype.  They’re constantly told all the different minorities of China get along just fine and at the same time they make fun of those same minorities for being different.  Even if they don’t make fun of those who are different there is a strong feeling with the Han Chinese that some people are better than others because of the way they look.

One thing I wanted to bring up was homosexuality.  In the end after talking to some people and thinking about it I did not.  I didn’t want to ask my school if it was okay, I didn’t want to deal with the possible aftermath of such a discussion and I didn’t want to single out the gay students (of which there a few I am aware of).  In the end though I think the biggest reason I didn’t talk about it was because I didn’t want my students to laugh at me and my sexuality.  Having a deep and honest discussion about such a subject is hard with Chinese 15 year olds.

I did however bring up Hitler.  Few Americans know just how loved this man is in China.  Nevermind his empire was a complete failure or that he killed millions and millions of people in mankind’s worst genocide my Chinese students think that he was a great leader and speaker.  A few of my students are fully obsessed with World War II and often show me the books they are reading about the era’s tanks or I find them carefully doodling the Nazi army’s flag in their Engliah textbook.  It’s always disconcerting when you bring up Hitler and a student jumps up and says: “I love him!”  I wanted to teach these kids a thing or two about this monster.  While my students love Hitler they also hold the Jewish people in the highest regard.  When I asked them for stereotypes they had of the Jews I got suggestions like: genius, rich, doctor, beautiful, business leader, and so on.  So I explained Hitler’s hatred of the Jews and how his idiotic stereotypes led to the Holocaust, which my students knew little about.  Still though I don’t it really changed their mind about Hitler’s greatness.  I mean, this is still the country where Mao is idolized after all he did.

My last week of classes was a time to relax and enjoy my last time at the front of the classroom.  Both the students and I took lots of pictures and I will post some of them soon.

Chinese Government Tries to Hide Dirty Past

Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009
The Goddess of Democracy

The Goddess of Democracy

Tomorrow is the big day.  It is the most sensitive anniversary of this year (so far): June 4th, the 20th anniversary of the Tian’anmen Square Massacre that brought the months long student protest for greater freedom and democracy to a bloody close.

This is actually a much smaller deal in China then you would think.  The reason is largely due to the fact that the younger generations, the high school and college students, have never heard about this dark day in Chinese history.  And if you do know anything about it your gut reaction is probably to be quiet, what with the Harmonious Society kick the government is on these days.  Back in 2004 when I was a outspoken and overzealous high school student in Beijing I brought up the protest with my host brother.  He had never heard of it.  Yet it turned out that he had been there as a toddler.  His parents, like many Beijing residents, went to the Square to give food to the protesting students, many of whom were holding a hunger strike.  My young host brother handed out popsicles.  Still though he had never learned of the protest until an American student had come to live with him 15 years later.

Of course the most lively discussion about the big anniversary is happening online.  Former dissidents have been promoting a campaign to have people wear white clothes on June 4th, white is the color of mourning in the Chinese culture.  There is already talk online that TV presenters are banned from wearing white (or black, or red) for the whole month of June.

A lot the discussion of the anniversary and what people are doing has been happening on Twitter.  So it was probably inevitable that Twitter was blocked yesterday, along with the Flickr photo sharing site and Hotmail (Hotmail is now back).  Many outspoken Chinese bloggers have been using Twitter as a nice uncensored alternative to the options available in China.  It is the first time Twitter was blocked. The New York Times has an article up about the recent wave of censorship in China.

First thing, this sucks.  I use these sites everyday.  All the photos on my blog are uploaded to Flickr, so now the blog looks rather naked from China.  I was getting really into Twitter too, though I must say a break from Twitter isn’t all that bad for my time management.  This recent wave of web site blockings (all in the name of creating a happy harmonious society) comes at the heels of many earlier attempts at censorship in the lead up to the anniversary.  Youtube was blocked over a month ago and as usual searching for websites related to the anniversary shuts down your access to Google and other sites.  In other forms of censorship pages from the International Herald Tribune were taken out of every issue entering the country and the BBC World News channel, which is available to many people in large cities like Beijing and Shanghai, found that it’s signal cut out whenever it brought up the Tian’anmen Square protest.  Geesh!  So much work you guys!  I wonder how many Party members it takes to unscrew the light bulb?

However the government, like a sloppy child hiding a mess from his mother, doesn’t actually manage to hold back the flow of information too well.  For instance this video is still available here in China.  These attempts at blatant censorship have also given the world media a lot to write and talk about and are incredibly noticeable and infuriating over here and not just to us American expats.  It seems to me that this campaign achieves nothing but to diminish the people’s trust in the Party and government.   Tomorrow I will have my own little protest by wearing white, but if anyone at my school asks me why I must lie.  (I have been banned from wearing white by an American.  It’s actually fine by me, giving voice to your political thoughts in China is just plain scary and often stupid (especially for a foreigner).  Ironically enough though it seems that half of the teachers at my school are wearing white.)  No wonder my students always say they love America because of its freedom.  They may not know anything about the Tian’anmen Square Protest and the bloody massacre that ended it but they’re not stupid.

One Month Left

Monday, June 1st, 2009

After 10 months living in Hunan I am down to my last month.  It has been a long and fantastic year teaching English in my Chinese high school.  Teacher here is certainly the most fascinating and rewarding job I’ve ever had in my life.  It’s been unforgettable.  Now with less than three weeks of teaching left and a calendar that’s more full than any I’ve yet had in Huaihua my life here is starting to feel like it won’t last forever.  Today I had my last Chinese lesson with my teacher 杨扬 and the English library I started up at my school is wrapping up and no longer lending out books.  The funny thing is while I’m excited to get home and see my friends and eat hamburgers and burritos living here has never felt so comfortable, so right.  I gotta make the most of my time left here.  It’s hard to look forward to my future in Shanghai, it feels so far away even though I’ll be moving there next month.  After such a steady and reliable life here in Hunan the changes that are coming up are hard to comprehend.  I’m going to miss this great province.

Fenghuang

Fenghuang, Hunan

Sea Turtle Found in Local Restaurant

Sunday, May 31st, 2009

Huaihua, where I live, is hundreds and hundreds of miles from the sea.  So I was particularly surprised to recently find a sea turtle sitting in a restaurant down the road from my school. The restaurant has rows of fish tanks that you can see from the road showcasing their impressive collection of seafood.  As far as I know they are the only seafood restaurant in the city.

How much does it cost?  I don’t know but more than I would ever pay, that’s for sure.  The sad creature is a stinging reminder that the Chinese often enjoy eating the rare and expensive just because they are that, rare and expensive.  The southern Chinese have reputation for this, one I’m afraid is well deserved (I even ate a viper’s gall bladder once, not to mention muntjac and stone frog).

Is this a sign that Huaihua is becoming a developed city?  I think so.   When you have customers in a landlocked province willing to buy sea turtles for dinner there must some well-heeled people living in the neighborhood.   One of those weird culinary signs that life is changing here.  This can also be seen in the city’s first McDonalds being built and the new French wine bar that just opened.

Sea Turtle in Chinese Restaurant, Hunan

Dinner?

Thoughts on Being Gay in China

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009

Yes, I am a gay man living in China.  This is not something I normally advertise (so why post it online stupid!), but I am also no coward and certainly not in the closet.  I’ve found that Chinese gay life rarely gets written about and that needs to change.  With this blog that change begins now.

同性恋 - Homosexual in Chinese

Same + Sex + Love

Click to continue »

Education in China: Creativity in the Classroom

Friday, May 22nd, 2009

Being both a high school teacher here in Huaihua, Hunan and a former Chinese high school student (This was at the Beijing Jingshan school, a public and renowned high school (see some photos from my time there here)) I like to ponder the education system of China.  Now, I know foreigners in China have a nasty habit of constantly thinking about how they would change this or that if they ran, for example, a Chinese school or even China itself – I’m certainly guilty of this sometimes, though I try to keep it to myself – but in regards to education I try to be more of a realist.  There are problems with the education system of China but as a student and now as a teacher I am constantly surprised and excited by the students and teachers.  School administrations, on the other hand, almost never seem to impress me.  My point is that I’m not one way of the other when it comes to China’s education system, there are good things and bad things about it and things that seemingly cannot be changed.  Today I wanted to write about creativity and critical thinking in the classroom and what I’ve learned about Chinese students and their teachers.

School Sports Meeting Huaihua

I’m a big fan of The Atlantic’s former China correspondent James Fallows.  While he may be leaving (already left?) China he still blogs about this country all the time, and always brings up interesting stories and topics.  Recently he’s been writing about the Chinese education system, specifically on the nationwide standardized college entrance examination the Gaokao (高考).  See his collected posts on Chinese education here.  This exam is the only way a Chinese high school student can get into a university, and then only a university chosen by the exam’s controllers (i.e.: the Chinese government).  This is a massive and seriously life altering exam that has a big trickle down effect on how students are taught in high school.  Lately Fallows has been posting the thoughts of both foreigners and Chinese on the exam and it’s effects on the education system.  Very interesting stuff.

By talking about the Gaokao and the ideas of college entrance reform in China Mr. Fallows also brings up the bigger issue of the way Chinese schools educate their students.  This is something I think about everyday while I teach high school students here in Huaihua.  I am a volunteer teacher at my school and this affords me almost no oversight on how I teach.  My classes use no textbook, have no final exam, and almost no one comes in to watch.  This is an odd set up for a foreigner teaching in China and it thankfully lets me teach the way I want to, with due discretion of course.  The thing is still I find myself teaching to students who have very in-the-box (as opposed to outside-the-box) thinking and this affects what I am able to do in the classroom.  There is a clear lack of willingness to be outspoken and creative in the Chinese classroom.

In my class I often have the students group up and work on a project to present to the class.  I always specify that I want creative answers and I try to set the project up so that they have to use critical thinking to complete it.  Yet their final projects usually end up looking the same.

For example this week I’ve been teaching my students about environmental problems the world faces.  While discussing the problems the students answered questions like “where does air pollution come from?” with stock answers they knew: factories (oddly cars never came up until I mentioned them).  Easy stuff.  Then the questions, “why is this bad for the environment?” and “what can we do to help solve this problem?” brought the same by-the-book answers.  They would look in their geography textbook for the right answer and didn’t think through the problems and how they are caused and could be fixed.  Air pollution, my students said every time, could be solved by planting trees and enacting stronger laws against polluting.  The idea that society’s need for cars should be questioned or that we should live with less stuff was rarely brought up.  Every class gave me the same answers, mostly bland simple ones.  Through the week I cheered on the idea of creativity and thinking for themselves but everyone preferred to write the easiest and most basic answers, even my best and brightest English students.  The students wanted to complete the worksheet, the quality of the answers wasn’t a priority.  There were some notably creative answers though, such as moving to Mars or the very Maoist idea of lowering the population through a world war.  While doing the least to achieve a decent grade is the norm for high school students the world over in China there often seems to be no other path taken.  In general my class projects always yield answers that stay well within the lines, and the students are proud and happy with this and don’t quite understand my disapproval with getting the same textbook answer over and over again.

Another example of this was written by a foreign teacher in China and reminds me similar experiences I’ve had with group skits in class.  They write about a class project where the students had to make a radio school skit (check it out here):

My eighth graders had a unit studying the radio, so I asked them to write their own radio shows. I put them in groups and told them to write 3-4 segments, including at least one conversation. Their English is more than good enough for an activity like this, and I did get several good shows, including a show where the news segment had some fake news and ended with the reader telling listeners that “some of this news may be fake, and we are not responsible for what people do after hearing this information”.

I also, however, got an enormous number of segments taken word-for-word from their books or newspapers; news items read directly from something they printed out or a magazine article; etc. Several students attempted to make conversations by having people alternate reading sentences from one of these printouts. The most extreme was when one group took a printout from a radio show and “wrote” it by changing the names. None of this was hidden – they know that I’ve seen the books and newspapers they were quoting from, and sometimes they would show me a magazine article and ask me how to pronounce one of the words. Often they’d understand the very general gist of the story but not the details, and it was very apparent in the way they said the words.

One foreigner teacher wrote on one of Jame’s Fallow’s posts: “I decided that one of the things that stifles creativity in China more than anything else was high school.”  Asking for creativity and critical thinking of my students clearly goes against the grain of the school’s teaching methods.  The textbook is God and us teachers are seemingly just there to whip our students as they plod through every page.  Even the exam essays they have to write for some classes (the best are pasted on the classroom wall) seem to be lifeless arguments they have heard or read elsewhere.  They are given good grades for such work.

I used to teach four classes a week at local elementary schools and one day I saw a teacher admonish a 10 year old student for not making a paper cup music maker exactly as instructed in the textbook.  Unbelievable!  Where I come from teachers usually never even used those stupid textbook projects and certainly never got mad at us over the way we made a class art project.  The same rules apply to English homework.  Never mind that the homework is almost entirely fill-in-the blank multiple choice questions on insignificant minor grammatical points (I can never seem to help my students on these, they want the right answer and I always see the grammar problem as having none), but when they do actually have to write sentences for each chapter’s final “creative” project the instructions have a hold-your-hand attitude that stifles almost any free thinking.

I’m getting a little harsh in my argument.  Chinese students are not uncreative, not at all.  They’re just rarely asked to be so by their teachers and parents.  The goal is always a perfect test score and spending time arguing about a grammatical point or trying out a new self-thought argument in an essay seems wrong when a teacher could just teach the right answer and the student memorize it.  Chinese education has been for a long time and still is a system where students parrot what their teacher teaches them.  At least for the most part.

I should point that due to the Gaokao college entrance examination a students high school grades don’t matter in the end.  If you are a mathematics genius you could fail your math class and still go to a good university.  I know students who have done that, though my students’ parents watch their child’s school grades pretty closely.  The parents even try to bribe us teachers sometimes.  This means that even if a teacher does ask his or her students to think creatively the student doesn’t really need to if they don’t want to.

A few weeks ago one of my classes showed me a video of their class dance routine for a school competition (one of the few times they get out of the classroom).  It was like a bad Backstreet Boys music video, except more lifeless and with everyone wearing matching shirts.  It made a cheerleading routine look like freestyle interpretative dance.  They were extremely proud of their work and had won the competition but I really didn’t see much of any creativity in it.  To them there was a right and a wrong way to do a dance and the line between the two was etched in stone.  Practice and memorization of a strict set of rules seems, to them, the best way to do almost anything.

My students board at the school and fr0m 7:30 AM until 9:30 PM are in a classroom (with short breaks for lunch and dinner).  Their life is incredibly insular and what they learn from us teachers can only be applied to exams in the classroom.  Forget about connecting English to real life (let’s learn about UFOs!) or seeing biology in action outside of reading about it in a textbook.  The fact that their knowledge is only used in getting a test grade severely limits how creative they are in using it.

James Fallows brought up a story in the People’s Daily from this month about the Chinese high school science team that competed at the recent Intel International Science and Engineering Fair.  The Chinese team won some minor honors but failed in to win any big awards.  Mr. Fallows writes:

What’s the problem?  The article discussed some obvious barriers — language, resources — but quoted a number of Chinese authorities saying that the real problem lay in the way Chinese schools taught people to think for themselves — or, didn’t. Too much emphasis on rote, detail, and following procedures; too little encouragement to reflect about the process of discovery.

Yep.

So after months of teaching in this environment of rote memorization and days spent locked in a classroom I was happy to read on Mr. Fallow’s blog that what Chinese students actually want is:

- more of a connection to the real world. They want to have the chance to do community service near their schools, such as tutoring and helping to take care of their elderly, and they also want to take their classes outside of their schools. One of the most impressive examples a student gave me was for an environmental science class being built around an effort to clean up a river, stream, or forest near the school.

- the chance for social development. They want clubs and sports, but they also want things like more free time to spend with their friends, school dances, and for dating to be allowed on campuses. I even had a student say, in full seriousness, that he thought there should be a class teaching students how to interact with the opposite sex.

As an aside, when I was a student at the Jingshan school my American classmates and I tried to start a Friday school dance during lunch.  It lasted all of two weeks before we found ourselves locked out of the gym by the administration, who had never told us that they were against the idea (communication in Chinese schools could be a whole other post).  Dancing and socializing go against the aims of a Chinese school.

I have a lot of hope for the future.  As I see it Chinese education can only get better.  The students I teach don’t make me sad for their future and there are not simply test taking robots, even if that’s the way they are taught.  My days as a student at the Jingshan school in Beijing showed me Chinese teachers (sometimes) making their students think critically and creatively.  While Jingshan is kind of a flagship school for public education in China (and therefore better than most in this respect) I can’t help but think that the pace of development and increasing international competition for Chinese students will bring about change in the way students are taught here.  Here’s hoping!

Shanghai and Other News

Wednesday, May 13th, 2009

First up, as everyone here in China knows yesterday was the one year anniversary of the devastating Sichuan earthquake last May that killed 80,000 people and left millions homeless.  While the earthquake could physically be felt here in western Hunan when it hit Sichuan the anniversary was less noticeable to me.  There were fireworks – the Hunan answer for any occasion, good or bad – and I know that the speech given during the day’s morning exercise was in remembrance of those who were killed.  Other than that though it was a normal school day, no parades or assemblies of any kind.

There is so much online about the earthquake and the anniversary so I’ll leave that to you to discover if you’re interested.  However I would highly recommend this conscientiously made video called “Afterquake” about the devastated region and the music sung by the local children.  The Shanghaiist wrote a piece about it (video included).  If you are in China watch the video on Tudou instead, it’s faster.

This week has been my first full week of teaching after being sick and then recovering while showing a movie in class, which my students loved and gave me plenty of reading time.  Teaching is one hell of a tiring profession, that’s a big lesson from my year here.  Teaching in Hunan’s sub-tropical hot ‘n humid weather means being stuck in a sweltering BO scented room (no air con) with 60 students, often with the windows closed so we can use the projector.  It gets old after awhile.  I must say though, compared to showing a movie or lying in bed sick teaching is definitely more enjoyable.  And now with only 4 or so weeks left of classes I want to make sure I get in all the important lesson plans I’ve been saving.

Tomorrow, after my last classes of the week (Hoorah for three day weekends!), I’m heading to Changsha so that can catch an early morning plane to glamorous Shanghai.  This trip is to (hopefully) solidify my future job in Shanghai after a short summer in America.  I’m getting excited just thinking about living in city of Shanghai’s caliber.  Besides the insane air quality Shanghai has many modern day comforts like micro brewed beer, cheese, and quality live music (Ratatat is playing next week and Ghostface Killah is hitting up the city in June!).  It should be a fun weekend.

A Story of an Illness in China

Monday, May 11th, 2009

Chinese hospital bed

As an American child an illness like the flu or a stomach ache often didn’t seem dire to me at all, in fact if I missed school the illness would sometimes be welcomed and enjoyed.  In those times I knew I was young and healthy and that my parent’s health insurance would allow competent and well paid doctors to solve whatever problem I had.  I can’t ever remember feeling terribly scared about being sick when I was a kid.  Now I’m older, though certainly young enough to be slightly cocky in the way I live, and illness is at the least a big annoyance and at worse a fearful and unknown hell.  In China illness takes on new dimensions of worry what with the less than perfect medical system.  Though believe me when I say that the Chinese medical system is very good and has been good to me, this story was an anomoly in almost every way.  I got to go down the hellish unknown road of an illness this Spring and it is without a doubt one of the most intense experiences of my time as a teacher in Hunan.

I don’t want to give away what I had just yet, the path to figuring that out is what made this long drawn out adventure so absolutely interesting and scary.  In March the American woman who had taught at my school here in Huaihua last year visited for a week.  It was 6 days and nights of non-stop banquets and jovial drinking with friends.  On top of that I was teaching 16 lessons that week.  She left on a Friday and that morning I woke up feeling miserable.  I reasoned that I had blown my immune system over the course of the hectic week of partying and figured I could cure myself with a weekend of sleep, relaxation, and lots of water and Tylenol.  I found myself completely exhausted to a degree I wasn’t used to that weekend, I was acting like an old who needs to stop every few steps.  All of that didn’t bother me too much since I am young and figured whatever the bug I had was it was nothing that I couldn’t fix.  Monday rolled around and I still felt horrible, maybe even worse than before.  I had an easy lesson for my students that week, having them prep question for my sister’s visit the following week, but nonetheess teaching was an unbearable chore that left me wasted.

After my first class Tuesday my body was noticeably giving away, everything took too much energy.  Even walking out of the school to eat was a massive chore and left me in bed for hours between trips anywhere.  Tuesday morning was the last time I would teach for two weeks.  On Wednesday I went to the local hospital, the Number Five People’s Hospital.  On the way there I learned that the teachers at my school never use that hospital, it has a crummy reputation.  The doctor there told me I was fine and would be okay after some rest.  He gave me vitamin C tablets.

I spent the rest of that week trying to recover, my mind focused on getting better for my sister Becky’s visit.  I downed an obscene amount of Tylenol, ate basically nothing (really), stayed in bed all day watching movies and went through a full water cooler’s worth of water in 7 days.  On Friday I went to Changsha to pick up my sister.  I was still sick but determined to make her visit as I had imagined it.  I still wasn’t eating more than a few bits.  Nausea and a sore throat were added to my list of symptoms.  On Sunday we took a bus back to Huaihua and I still felt horrible.

That first night back home I realized I needed to go to the hospital.  Next day spent all day in the Huaihua No. One hospital.  Nothing was discovered until they sent me to the infectious diseases building.  There they told me that I had a serious infection “in some organ” (they didn’t know which) and needed to stay in the hospital over night.  I called my field director told him I wanted to come to Changsha, Hunan’s capital, for better care.  My sister’s visit was unraveling at the seams.  I packed enough clothes and contacts for two days in Changsha.  I was hopeful of a quick diagnosis and recovery, a foolhardy belief looking back on it.  My throat by this point was becoming increasingly out of whack and talking or eating (not that I did that) became a very painful experience.

We took the early bus back to Changsha, I was out of it in every way.  Arriving in Changsha at noon we hiked around the busy metropolis in the mid-day sun while we searched for a hotel that hadn’t opened yet.  I sat down every chance I had.  Got a room at my old hotel from last summer and taxied to the Provincial People’s Hospital, my home for the next 5 days.

The first day was pretty easy, just got some antibiotics and saline solution injected into me in the emergency ward.  The nurses like my plump veins.  Only took 5 and a half hours too, with ample time waiting in lines to first pay and then pick up my prescriptions.  Got dinner while in a lucid feverish state, but I was hopeful and glad Becky was able to see more than the inside of Chinese hospitals.

Over the next couple of days my doctors (they changed almost daily) kept changing my prescription, apparently nothing was working (Hmmmm. A warning sign, no?).  Started getting daily blood tests, watched as my white blood cell count skyrocketed.  Every single test they ever gave me came back with a sad looking doctor and bad news, it was almost comical.  By day three the doctors were showing signs of worry and didn’t understand why the antibiotics weren’t working.  My family back home was worried as well while they tryed to figure out exactly what my medicine was.  My field director began to show signs of fatigue and I slept all day on my rock hard bed while my sister read books.  McDonalds milk shakes became my best friend and I watched the swarms of sick people around me.

New crazy diagonisises became a daily occurrence.  Strep throat became tonsillitis, and then infected lungs, which became an infected heart and then TB, finally ending in a scrapping-the-bottom-of-the-barrel HIV diagnosis (no, I don’t have that).  I bought new glasses because my insufficient supply of contacts ran out and I wore the same filthy/smelly/sweat soaked clothes day after day.  Two fellow American teachers, Tara and Maria, visited me sometime during the week and were a Godsend.  They brought instant chicken soup and hot chocolate, filling a void I had due to complete lack of American comfort food.

Thursday night (after 3 days at the hospital) was the high tide of my misery.  The hospital refused to let me take any pain killer whatever, it would affect my fever and they enjoyed watching it climb – seemingly just to see how high it would get.  I couldn’t swallow water anymore because of the pain.  So that night with frozen water bottles in my armpits (to lower the fever) and IV tubes stuck into my Heroin-addict-hands I slept at the hospital.  At that point I was fully nuts and deeply worried about what would happen to me.  Crazy scenarios popped into my head about being quarantined with Bird Flu or being evacuated to America.  At that moment of sadness while my doctor thought I was asleep she talked to my field director behind the curtain saying in a serious tone that it was very possible that I had Tuberculosis.  I lied staring at my IV dripping, full of despair.

On Friday with a high tide fever of 102 I flew to fly to Beijing to seek better care.  The hospital was American run and, to me, was like a 5 start hotel (with prices to match).  I started feeling better the minute I learned I had Mononucleosis.  Yes, I have Mono.  It only took the Beijing hospital an hour or so to figure that out.  I kept thinking: “What the hell had they been doing in Changsha??”  I flew back to Changsha the next day and took a bus to Huaihua.  I was still sick, though thankfully out of my life as a patient with an unknown disease and rare bacterial infection.

The writer Katherine Ann Porter said in a 1965 interview regarding her bout of Spanish influenza, which she got while recovering from Tuberculosis in Texas in 1919, “I just simply divided my life, cut across it like that.”  Now, I was never close to death but the long nature of my illness and the fact that I stayed bed ridden and insular after returning from Beijing for weeks and weeks brought a clean break from my life before my illness.  Truthfully, before I was sick I had been lost.  Life in Huaihua was annoying me and my job teaching at my school lacked the enjoyment it had before.  My goals to learn Chinese, live in the present, and enjoy life alone in a far-off Chinese city were thrown aside and I wasted my days away.  Mono gave me plenty of time to think and realize how little time I have left here.  Right now I’m trying to act on those realizations.  At least I have a good story to tell.

Photograph from eyeofstanley on Flickr.

The Empty Seat On The Bus

Saturday, February 14th, 2009

Kunming bus

I’m back home in Huaihua with a pile of blog posts to finish and a laziness that I’m having trouble shaking.  Today I took the bus to go shopping downtown and get out of the house.  I take the bus a fair amount here, it’s cheap and cuts down on walking (duh).  Anyway, on the bus something happened today that happens all the time to me.  Let me explain.

The nearest bus stop for me is near the beginning of the line so getting a seat is usually no problem.  Today was no exception.  I snagged a seat with ample leg room next to the window.  As the bus wheezed down the beeping road towards the center of the city more and more people got on.  It was mid-afternoon on a Saturday, when incidentally all my students are in class, so the passengers were from all walks of life.  People kept passing me to nab seats farther back in the bus and pretty soon all the seats were full.  That is all the seats except the one next to me.  In China people often sit on the outside seat, thereby blocking the window seat, and flash you a face of annoyance when you try and take the seat next to them.  That is not what I was doing.  I was just sitting by the window in what is in my mind the best seat (the leg room really matters with me).  As we kept moving along the bus filled with more people, people who were all standing as we jerked our way forward.

So the bus was filled with people, most of them standing, but still I sat alone in my row.  No one seemed to want to get near me, like I was some diseased dog wearing an eye patch and missing a leg.  Or maybe they just wanted to stare at me, as is the case with almost everyone I see on the street, and thought that sitting next to me wouldn’t give them such a good view.  Finally, on the last stop before mine an old man squeezed through the throngs of people standing to sit next to me.  However he used only half the seat, trying to distance himself from me as completely as possible while he fiddled with his cellphone.

I try to keep this blog from being a blog where I point out all the weird/annoying/aggravating things about China, because that is so boring and isn’t what I want you all to be reading from me.  But now that I’m back in Hunan after my month long vacation (more posts coming soon, I promise!) I find myself once again exhausted, as I was back when I first arrived, being the only foreigner in a large out-of-the-way Chinese city.  The staring, shrieking, pointing, laughing, and segregation does get easier to deal with but it is always noticeable and always exhausting.

On the bright side of things, Obama’s exemplary Secretary of State Hilliary Clinton will be coming to Asia, including China, in the coming week.  She gave her first big speech as Secretary of State to the Asia Society in New York where she discussed why she was going to Asia before Europe and what she plans to do.  It is all good news from those Americans like me who hope for good relations between our countries in the future.  Definitely worth a read.  Check it Out!

Bird Flu in My Backyard

Wednesday, February 4th, 2009

While living in America can sometimes make me a bit of hypochondriac, traveling outside of the country I am bizarrely less worried about getting sick.  My time in China has been a good example of me laughing in the face of illness.  I, of course, wash my hands here in China, but there is never any soap to use (if there is it has been watered down for weeks and can no longer be called soap).  People cough, sneeze and spit in all directions without any thought of using a tissue, but I don’t let that worry me.  Anti-Malaria medicine hasn’t been in my mouth since 2002 when I went to Belize and Guatemala and discovered I hate Anti-Malaria medicine.  To be fair Malaria is not really a problem in most parts of China but can sometimes be found in Xishuangbanna and Laos, where I just came from.  When my American hometown ended its Beijing exchange program early in 2003 because of the SARS crisis I thought they were being a bit too careful.

0810 randomhuaihua

My casual nature overseas is even more apparent in the way I eat.  America is a bureaucracy that loves to regulate and centralize its food systems.  Restaurants are frequently inspected, forced to buy expensive equipment to deal with stuff like grease and the possibility of fire, and are in general expensive propositions for the owners.  These safeguards make us feel safe but they also limit the choices of what and where we can eat.  People far too often go to chain restaurants with a lame variety of dishes that are unhealthy for them and the enviroment.  So many restaurants fail to make a sustainable business and many are forced to close down just months after opening.  Not only that but the financial costs of opening a restaurant limit who can do so and therefore keep great cooks from ever sharing their cuisines with the greater community. Can you tell I’ve been reading Michael Pollan’s fantastic book The Ominivores Dilemma?

Food is and will always be one of the reasons I love Asia.  Anyone who has a bit of money, some cooking skills and a strong spirit can open a restaurant or cart selling whatever they want to.  The sheer variety and number of restaurants in China makes every time I go out to eat lunch an adventure (and a cheap one at that).

Stomach aches, diarrhea, vomiting and other ills are a natural byproduct of such a open and diverse food system, but it’s not as common as you would think (I have never had to use the Immodium AD I brought with me to China).  I am of the opinion that the Chinese and Asian food systems are in many ways better than the American version.  This thinking on my part is not limited to restaurants but also encompasses the produce markets, butchers, tofu makers, noodle makers, and local distilleries that are found all over the place including within a 15 minute walk from my apartment. The vegetables, fruit and meat that I eat and cook with in Hunan are for the most part locally produced, processed, and sold.  When I go to my local wet market to buy tofu or some spinach – a completely different experience from the way we buy food in the States – I know where my money is going and who is doing the work.  When you buy a bag of organic baby spinach in Boston that was grown in Arizona using machines and Mexican labor you have very little idea of where it came from or how your money is being divided.  This is why I love markets, whether its a farmers market in Burlington Vermont or my local wet market in Huaihua.

Rooster

This thinking of mine was dealt a heavy blow when I read that the H5N1 Bird Flu, which had been absent (or maybe just unreported) in China since February 2007 came back with vengeance during the first month of this year.  Of the first four killed this year (the number of fatalities has since grown to eight) one was a 16 year old boy in Huaihua, Hunan.  Just to make this very clear, Huaihua is where I live and teach.  It is a city of 2-3 million people (maybe more) who are largely not rich, it is also only 10 years old and growing at a frantic Chinese pace.  Needless to say the city is full of chickens, no doubt some of them sick with the flu.  Huaihua is also a railway hub and gets thousands and thousands of vistors passing through every month.  During the Chinese New Year these numbers swelled, as with every other part of China.

This boy was from Guizhou province (a mere hour away by car or train from Huaihua) and came to Huaihua because of the better medical care, in fact I would bet money that he went to the city’s best military hospital where they don’t allow foreigners to enter the premises.  He was one of only 4 people 8 people to have had died from the H5N1 Bird Flu in this new year in China, though there are upwards of 30 people infected by it.  Man, I mean, of all the Chinese cities in the world he had to die in mine?!

Reading the story I was reminded of my frequent trips to my local wet market.  The poultry section in particular where they kill the chickens, ducks and geese.  The cement floor is wet and slimy from fish scales, blood or unknown origin and feathers, lots and lots of feathers.  I once got a Chicken feather stuck in my nose.  When you buy a chicken (or duck or goose) they pull it out from a crowded pen made of an oversized basket turned upside down and walk it to the killing area.  Here they deftly slit the neck of the bird and collect the blood in a little plastic bag as it runs out so that you, the consumer, can use it in your cooking.  Then the bird is scalded in a pot over a little coal fired stove that looks like a British tax man that was given the tar and feathers treatment during the American Revolution.  Then the bird is plucked and tied up by its feet so you can hang it from your bicycle on your ride home.  Everything and everyone seems to be covered in bird.

Bird Flu cannot be transmitted from human to human only from a sick bird to a human.  You cannot get the disease by eating cooked chicken in a restaurant, only from the living bird itself.  So while I think I’ll continue eating Kungpao chicken I don’t think I should hang around the chicken killing area of my local market anymore.

This news as odd timing for me because I’ve been planning for months to buy and slaughter a chicken on my own.  I love cooking and feel that they way we eat is one of the best ways to help the environment and connect with nature.  In America it is not easy to slaughter a chicken on your own, especially in the suburbs.  So it seemed to make sense to try it out here in China where such a ritual is practiced everyday by millions of people.  I kept thinking about all the knowledge I would gain and how such an exercise would force me to use every part of the animal.  My dream was so well thought out I even studied how to slaughter a chicken and decided on a name for the bird: Dinner.

Now the news is just getting worse and after a autumn spent reading about tainted Chinese milk I’m not sure I can just continue ignoring the problems with food here in China.  Most disheartening is that I am now scared to cook with poultry and even just thinking about going to the market gives me pause.

Then a couple days ago I read this article in which Lo Wing Lok, a Hong Kong government adviser on infectious diseases, said:

“There’s no doubt of an outbreak of bird flu in China, though the government hasn’t admitted it.  Inefficient communication between the Hong Kong and mainland authorities is an ongoing problem. Hong Kong has not been well-informed by the mainland.”

Wow.  So now I keep wondering where this new food crisis will go and what it means for the people of China and me.  What a great way to start the new year!

Fish drying - nasty

Candy For My Students

Tuesday, January 6th, 2009

It is a new year.  Two days ago I returned from Chengdu, the great city of southwest China in Sichuan province, where me and some friends from Huaihua went to celebrate the holiday and our friend’s birthday.  Chengdu was both fantastic and mediocre at the same time.  We rang in the New Year at a Chinese club filled with people we didn’t know and everyone seemed half crazy and half alive.  The real highlight of the trip (apart from burritos at Pete’s Tex Mex!) was our hostel.  We stayed at Sim’s Cozy Guesthouse.  I can’t decide if it’s the greatest hostel in China or the world.  It’s weird in this country of rabid consumer zeal and now during our worldwide economic downturn recession to find businesses that don’t seem to care about money.  Sim’s always seemed to put something more meaningful, like happiness and charity, before matters of business.  Chengdu is filled with fantastic hostels, probably why the bar is so high, and I’ve stayed in quite a few of them but from now on my Chengdu home will always be Sim’s.  It’s just plain great and you should stay there next time you’re in Chengdu.

So, like I was saying, it’s a new year.  It’s also the end of my very first semester as a teacher and in a few weeks my year as a 22 year old will be over.  I’m still lost in my way and uncertain of everything after today, yet right now I’m happy and content and that’s… something.

Teaching has by and large been wonderful and I think working at my school here in Huaihua has only helped me ease into the job (really, my school makes everything pretty chill for me).  Unlike other jobs, namely the hell that is retail, teaching leaves you happier when you leave than when you arrive at work.  My students while being insane super-energized teenagers are also some of the greatest people I’ve meet and I’ve never had to storm our of a classroom in anger.  I hope I’m helping them improve their English and in general giving them a rounder more fulfilling experience in school.  I think I am…  No matter, I’ll keep at it next semester.

This week, my last week of teaching before my students have their exams, I’ve been teaching my students the song “Hello, Goodbye” by The Beatles.  I must say The Beatles have been most helpful to me and my fellow American teachers here in China, the kids like their songs and I always feel like I’m pointing them in the right direction when I play a song from Abbey Road or Srgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band.  Chinese students love to sing (though they generally hate to dance) and when I ask my students what their favorite classes were music focused classes always get mentioned.  So I knew I was making a good choice for the last class with “Hello, Goodbye” and I have been happily right in that choice.  Lesson plans that don’t seem like a chore and have an energy of their own making make my weeks fly merrily by.

To add to the joyous and happy ending of the semester I’ve been giving every one of my students a piece of candy at the end of the class.  I buy the cheap candy in bulk from the local supermarket and it only costs me about 12 RMB a class, but with about 630 students this is gonna cost me about 150 RMB ($22).  This is certainly not much but when you calculate the fact that it is 1/16 of my monthly salary it feels like a a lot.

All of this makes me think back to all the amazing teachers I’ve had in my lifetime, something I’ve been doing often as a teacher.  They seemed to always be mentioning how they purchased class materials with their own money, certainly they weren’t complaining just imparting to us, their students, that we shouldn’t take everything for granted.  Back when I was a child I always thought that the teachers and schools had tons of money and I didn’t quite see why they complained.  Now I can see more clearly the position they were in.  No doubt they too disliked paying for the class’ candy and markers, but I betcha they also went home content after a day well spent.  Maybe they even hummed a happy Beatles tune while they walked home, like me.

Rock and Roll is Outlawed

Monday, December 29th, 2008

Today I was invited to take part in my school’s daily broadcast.  Everyday after lunch and before afternoon classes there is a ten minute broadcast over the school’s speakers at a very high volume.  The girls running the English show asked to interview me.  It all went over very well and was a piece of cake.  They asked me silly questions like: “Is American school life like High School Musical?” and “What do you think of China?”

Between questions they played music, really bad pop music.  Today it was Mariah Carey and Celine Dion.  Slow boring pop music for the masses.  I discovered out that the headmaster has decreed that rock and roll may not be played over the school’s speakers.  Too disruptive and crude I was told.  Even the Beatles are off limits.  At the Beijing high school I studied at back in 2004 my fellow American students and I found out that social dancing at the school was outlawed.  Today China is looking a lot like the movie Footloose.  Though it could also be argued that the students here aren’t even interested in listening to rock and roll (Led Zepplin was not at all appreciated by my students when I played it for them a couple months ago).  It is truly disheartening that there are teenagers in the world who would prefer bad pop music to the Man-bashing rhythms of rock.

Related to this post the blog The China Beat just posted a two part story on Chinese rock and roll.  Part One  Part Two

Merry Christmas!

Thursday, December 25th, 2008

Chinese Christmas card