Photography

...now browsing by category

 

Bangkok

Friday, March 12th, 2010

Bangkok Collage

Ah, Bangkok.  This city elicits such strong reactions from visitors that most of the time it is best to ignore what others say and go there with an open mind.  When I visited Bangkok for the first time in 2006 I was in love with the city.  Coming from a chilly Chinese provincial city the cosmopolitan delights and humid tropical climate of Bangkok, 曼谷 in Chinese, were balm to my dry soul.  At the time, I had only heard people’s negative thoughts on the city, so I came pretty much expecting such a trip.  Really though, all those negative-Nancys were plain wrong.  Bangkok is awesome.

Now, that first trip was in October, when the overloaded Thai tourist season had yet to get into full gear, on my trip last month I arrived in the middle of the Great White Northern invasion.  The long bus ride from my plane to the Bangkok terminal went past rows and rows of airplanes all from countries that are thoroughly nontropical: Swedish Airways, Finnish Airways, American, Japan Air, Swiss Air, Air France, etc etc.  The Bangkok international airport, which had been open for merely one week when I had arrived in 2006, was packed to the gills with these pale visitors, all waiting in line for the tropical bliss that Thailand is so well known for.

Bangkok Collage

I was only in Bangkok for a night, not really enough time to do the city justice.  However, since I had done all the must-see touristy spots on my last trip I was free to just wander and eat whatever came my way.  I did have three goals for my time in the city, 1) visit iberry 2) ride the canal boats and 3) eat a lot of amazing street food.  I was able to do the first two well, though my ignorance of the Thai language and Thai cuisine kept me from experiencing Bangkok’s fascinating food scene beyond the basic dishes we all know.  Tragic, I know.  After living in China for so long, a country where my language skills can get me through most situations, it was painful being in a country where I could not communicate in the local language.  I could see myself being lumped together with all the other tourists that come to Thailand, and I hated it.

Getting back to what I wanted to do in the city, ice cream was first and foremost in my mind.  For those of you not in the know iberry is a Bangkok based ice cream and sorbet company.  I had heard the greatest praise for their unique creations from all corners of the food-centric internet.  Ramblingspoon, Eating Asia, and Gourmet magazine have all scooped on accolades for this place.  Being a devout fan of all things ice cream related and tired of the expensive so-so offerings here in China it was a total pleasure to check out this spot.

I tried their sorbet in Bangkok and later their ice cream in the southern Thai city of Trang.  The sorbets were delicious, albeit not world changing.  The flavors were enticing and definitely not your everyday American offerings, where sorbet has always been given back seat to ice cream.  With flavors like pomelo, gooseberry, mangosteen, banana, guava, and tamarind it can be a challenge deciding what to order.  I opted for three kinds of sorbet: something called Blue Havana, a passion fruit sorbet, and a scoop of salted plum sorbet.  The first two were fantastic but the salted plum was just too salty for my tastes.  But how could I resist something as exotic as salted plum?  Though I will say that mixing the passion fruit and salted plum together was a cool combination.  I only wish Shanghai had a branch so I could methodically try every flavor they make.

iberry ice cream

The sorbet offerings at a downtown Bangkok iberry (the ice cream was another section that was just as big)

Traveling via Bangkok’s canals was just something I had enjoyed doing last time I was in the city and wanted to try again.  Something about boats as a means of public transportation have always intrigued me.  Bangkok is the only city that I know of that has very popular cheap public transportation on its canals and rivers (Hong Kong has the Star Ferry, which I guess could count even though it goes across a harbor, and as far as I remember Venice’s gondolas were largely used by tourists not local Venetians).  Bangkok is a very wet city (just try watching the streets turn into canals during the monsoon season) and in the past it had been host to an extensive canal system, which has since been almost completely paved over and turned into roads.  On a small number of the few remaining canals and on the large Chao Praya river that bisects the city cheap public boats still carry a mixed collection of local Bangkokers (is that the right word?), foreign European tourists and orange robed monks, who incidentally have their own section on the boat in the Chao Praya ferries.

Bangkok's canals

The canals are a great way to get around if they’re near you and your destination (they’re often not) and even the act of waiting on the docks by the smelly opaque waters of the canals can be enjoyable, what with the little shops and abundant tropical foliage that can be found there.  All in all the canals are a nice way to forget that you are walking around a congested urban metropolis.

Orchids Bangkok

An orchid at a canal ferry dock

Updated 3/13: Embarassing grammatical mistakes fixed.

Dropping the ball

Tuesday, March 9th, 2010

I have really neglected my blogging duties as of late.  Most egregiously in my mind I stopped bothering to write about new developments in gay rights here in the People’s Republic of China, even though so much has already happened in this new year.  Like how about the fact that the Beijing authorities shut down China’s first “Mr. Gay Pageant” and a guy (from Xinjiang of all places!) went to the international “Mr. Gay Pagaent” in Oslo anyway.  Even my old Beijing roomate, a devout heterosexual, managed to write about this “Mr. Gay Pageant” debacle.  And how could I ignore the first gay wedding in China or the great pictures that came from it?  Having forgotten to mention the marriage it was no doubt expected that I would neglect to talk about the backlash that comes from being the first “married” gay couple in China, but that doesn’t make my inaction okay.  Even the Shanghaiist blog’s Top 5 gay China moments of 2009 warranted a mention, though apparently not by me.  I was too busy ignoring my duties to bother to say much about any of this and I apologize for this lapse of judgment.  Maybe it’s because I’m single.

Besides my laziness, lack of a boyfriend and a graduate school application that had to be finished I was also traveling most of February, sans laptop.  Shanghai in the winter can be a bit of a downer so it was an easy decision to dip into my savings and head south to Thailand and Malaysia for a couple weeks with some American friends of mine.  It was a very pleasurable way to celebrate the Chinese New Year and I came back with quite a hefty collection of photographs, some of which I’m hoping to exhibit on this blog in the style of Primitive Culture and Itinerant Bordeaux (two very awesome blogs about travel and food written by two very attractive men).  For now you can check out my Flickr page for all the photos or just soak in the relaxed vibes from this photograph.

A daily of life on the island of Ko Lanta, Thailand.

Life on the island of Ko Lanta, Thailand.

Buses at Dusk

Tuesday, January 12th, 2010

Shanghai Scenes

This photo of mine was just published by the Shanghaiist blog, a great resource for anyone living in Shanghai, as part of their “Photo of the Day” series.  I thought I’d take this moment to advertise my Flickr account, where I now have almost 5,000 photographs taken all over the world that you can check out.  Happy New Year everyone.

Notes from Changsha, Hong Kong

Wednesday, November 18th, 2009

Hong Kong
Hong Kong

Oh man, I tell ya it felt good to leave work the Friday before Halloween and hope in a cab headed to the airport instead of braving Shanghai’s Metro.  Halloween weekend was my first time leaving Shanghai since I arrived here in August.  As it turned out, a commute from Shanghai to Changsha isn’t all that bad, except for the bad quality and exorbitant prices of airport food in China.

When I exited the airport at Changsha around 10:30 Friday night I inhaled deeply.  After living in Shanghai so long the air… well, it smelled kind of provincial.  Not that Changsha or its airport (many miles outside town) has clean air, but Shanghai’s air feels so adulterated most of the time.  Not only is the city covered in smog but just walking the streets and subway stations you inhale a multitude of fragrances that have nothing to do with the natural world.  Whether it’s the obnoxious construction smells I find in the People’s Square metro station, the sharp cologne burning my nose in the elevator, the smell of refuse on the street or the intoxicating scents of a decadent restaurant – no breath in Shanghai is free of man-made smells.  Of course it wasn’t just the smells that made it clear I wasn’t in Shanghai anymore, there was something pleasantly inland and second-tier about Changsha that set it apart from the sterilized coastal city I share with 20 million other people.

My cab driver from the airport drove at tremendous speeds (what is it with Chinese cabbies driving obscenely fast to and from airports?) and I arrived in downtown Changsha in record time.  First stop was the old hangout, Folk Bar on Jiefang lu (Liberation road).  My friends had thought that my cab would take longer than it had so they had already moved onto a new watering hole, but that was fine with me because I had a nice time drinking a gin and tonic catching up with the bartender Jimmy.  I met Jimmy last year and we instantly became friends, he is from the city of Huaihua in far western Hunan where I spent last year teaching English.  I also got to say hi to the boss of the bar, who last year in a moment of memorable exuberance had bought me and a friend a few free Belgian beers.  It was all very Cheers like, going to that place where everyone know your name and yadda yadda.  While walking the streets I know so well to the next bar someone even recognized me.  It felt like coming home, a feeling I had over and over again during my visit to Changsha.

The rest of that Friday night, my hangover-filled Saturday and the big Halloween party Saturday night don’t really need to be discussed.  It was a blast, but parties like that don’t lend themselves well to blog posts.  On Sunday, exhausted and happy after a weekend of reunions and making new friends, I caught a train back to Shanghai.  Why a train and not a plane you ask?  Well besides the fact that I like taking trains in China, I had to lug home two big suitcases packed with books.  You see, I love books.  Last year as a teacher I had shipped over a box of books before I arrived in Hunan and had continued to add to my collection as the year went on and by the end of it I had a sizable library.  Unlike many expats in China I can’t just give my books away or leave them for future American expats to read, I just can’t let go.  So I left my books with a friend in Changsha and on this trip I just barely got them home to my apartment in Shanghai before my arm fell off.

I had one day back in Shanghai before I was leaving again for Shenzhen on my way to Hong Kong.  I was lucky enough to see my old roommate from my days as a student in Kunming, which was incidentally when this blog was begun.  One highlight of his visit to Shanghai were the mugs (1 liter!) of excellent hefeweizen that we enjoyed at the Bund Brewery, a spot I will certainly be returning to.

The next day I headed back to the Hongqiao airport in Shanghai and flew south to Shenzhen, the special economic zone smack dab next to Hong Kong that is home to 10 million people and is a monument to the positives and negatives of Deng Xiaoping’s reform and opening.  The whole city is like one big construction site; yes, that can be said for every Chinese city, but in Shenzhen the land feels even more cut up and unfinished than usual.  Luckily I didn’t have to spend much time walking around Shenzhen, a city that holds onto the adjective “soulless” well.  There is a bus that ferries you from the Shenzhen airport to downtown Kowloon in Hong Kong, though you have to walk through customs yourself.

About the Hong Kong customs: it’s easy.  I tell you it feels wonderful walking into a part of China and getting a 90 day visa just for being an American, such a nice change from the mainland where visas are a real headache.  There’s one thing about entering Hong Kong that always cracks me up.  They have big colorful posters everywhere warning visitors about carrying in drugs, infectious diseases, and animal products.  Naturally, a tiny island city of over 7 million people next to the largest country in the world should be worrying about such things.  The poster explaining that you can’t bring in animal products has this hilarious picture of a rather short portly Chinese woman carrying a cheap plastic tarp bag (the carpet bag of China), and right beside her is this super hot Playboy model of a Hong Kong customs officer literally towering over the peasant woman (who looks mortified) and what is this Angelina Jolie of a Customs officer holding?  Why nothing less than a “black boned chicken” in all is dead raw-meat glory.  You’re probably scratching your head and saying “what?” but believe me, the poster is hilarious.

The bus ride from the border into the city of Hong Kong is short and takes you through bald hills covered in thin layers of concrete, like so many chocolate truffles, and past the tallest skinniest apartment buildings you will ever see.  Many of these skinny towers have a floor smack in the middle that has no rooms, so as to allow the wind to blow through the anorexic building.  The sheer swaying that the people living on the top floor of these places must experience, it’s enough to explain why Fengshui practitioners advocate living on the ground level.

I’m starting to think that Hong Kong is the home of my adult dreams.  In fourth grade a friend of mine and I laid down plans to travel across the Sahara on a Vespa scooter, now (sadly) I dream of living in Hong Kong – wealthy and comfortable.  (Hold on a second, I still want to travel through North Africa on a scooter!  I can move to Hong Kong when I retire.)

The city feels less like a archipelago of islands off the Southern Chinese coast and more like a metropolis placed in the exact middle of every shipping lane that exists on this planet, like the bustling space stations of the never-to-be-realized future that I used to watch on TV as a child.  It is simultaneously a place people go to on their way to another place and a destination in itself.  The way I always notice the city’s oh so inviting internationalness is by going to a Hong Kong supermarket.

As I noticed last time I visited the city, the upscale supermarkets here sell absolutely everything under the sun.  2008 saw Hong Kong abolish all wine duties on imported wine and the city is now certifiably the new center of the wine world.  If you want to auction off your case of 1982 Chateau Petrus, Hong Kong is the place to do it.  So, when I arrived in the city, in the concrete cave of a fantastically large mall (the forum of the modern Asian city), I quickly passed by the Starbucks (somehow nicer than our Shanghai versions, but I can’t put into words why) and hit up the super-deluxe supermarket.  There I perused the extensive wine collection that was, by and large, reasonably priced, unlike in Shanghai where wine prices are often jacked up like an American home before the recession.  I went with an organic Australian Riesling that was a comfortable 99 Hong Kong dollars, a gift to myself in that city of self pampering.  I also ordered a real cheeseburger that was fantastic.

While in Hong Kong I stayed in my company’s private apartment way up near the top of the mid-levels escalator in the land of polished Lamborghinis and private tennis lessons.  I think I’ll let the view speak for itself:

0911 Hong Kong (70)

0911 Hong Kong (73)

0911 Hong Kong (69)

0911 Hong Kong (71)

0911 Hong Kong (67)

0911 Hong Kong (64)

The building was just as luxurious as the view. They even sterilize the elevator buttons hourly:

0911 Hong Kong (17)

I managed to make it up to the top of Mount Victoria, which I had skipped on the last visit due to an interminable blanket of fog.  I snapped some photos and walked slowly through the muggy forests and the egregiously expensive apartment complexes back down to the neighborhood I was staying in.

0911 Hong Kong (44)

0911 Hong Kong (37)

0911 Hong Kong (42)

0911 Hong Kong (49)

0911 Hong Kong (53)

I then did the only natural thing and ordered a heaping pile of Mexican food for one.  This was followed with the purchase of a full pint of Ben & Jerry’s Mint Cookie ice cream (Hong Kong is the part of China that sells Ben & Jerry’s) that I took back to the apartment to chow on while sipping my Australian wine.  I had hoped to save the majority of the ice cream for breakfast (a favorite early morning meal of mine that I learned to love while studying in Burlington, Vermont), but the freezer was one solid block of ice.  I had to bite the bullet and eat the full pint of ice cream and drink the bottle of wine while simultaneously snacking on the leftover chips and salsa from my diabetes-inducing cheese-covered Mexican feast.  I decided to stay in and watch cable TV, so that I could more easily consume my ice cream (isn’t it interesting how TV makes eating forgettable, almost dream like?), before rolling my engorged body to the bedroom.  Lucky for me the master bedroom had such a wonderful view I forget all about the extreme levels of heartburn that were burning apart my digestive system.

And that was my vacation.

Photos and Videos from China’s National Day

Tuesday, October 6th, 2009

For those of you that don’t have CCTV at home and were unable to watch China’s larger-than-life National Day parade last week here is a fantastic time lapse video of the shindig done by Dan Chung of The Guardian.  For a nice selection of images from the day check out the Boston Globe’s Big Picture page.

China’s 60th Anniversary national day – timelapse and slow motion – 7D and 5DmkII from Dan Chung on Vimeo.

My Shanghai Commute

Sunday, September 27th, 2009

Looking over what I’ve been writing in this blog lately I’ve noticed I’ve posted very little about my day to day life here in Shanghai and I’ve posted almost no pictures.  In my defense, my days are an uninteresting mixture of work, which I dare not go into deeply here, and going home tired after the sun has already set to cook dinner.  There’s more to my life here and I’m sure I’ll get around to that stuff, but nothing feels very urgent.

One part of my life here in Shanghai that I always find interesting and that I’d like to share with all you handsome readers is my daily commute.  It is in fact my first full-fledged commute for my first downtown office job (Hooray for stepping stones to mediocre lifestyles!).  My last job as a high school teacher in western Hunan had very little in the way of a commute, that is unless you consider rolling out of bed and taking a 5 minute walk through the school campus a commute.  My Shanghai commute is also worlds away from my daily commute in Thailand, though I try not to dwell on that.  And back in America, I was either walking to class or driving to my various jobs and neither have nearly the same amount of energy and excitement that a Shanghai commute contains.  Back in August I touched on the Shanghai subway and what I said then has held true everyday since: the Shanghai subway is a crazy and crowded way to get to work.

Interestingly, since I work all day and usually stay at home once I get back my daily commute is often the bulk of my time spent outside in the city.  But what a way to spend one’s time in Shanghai!  It’s a repetitive story of bumping into people, being corralled by crossing guards and pink shirt wearing subway workers, slow trips up and down escalators and over-stuffed stairways, the always sardine-like subway cars themselves, and (if it’s raining) the use of umbrellas as tools to beat other people out of your path.  Everyday I tell myself I should make a video of my commute, but until I get that project off the ground here are some photographs I took one day on my way to and from work.

Before I get to the pictures I want to mention that today is Sunday and I am at work.  No, it is not overtime, there is no pressing work to be done, and no this is not a bit of law firm workaholic ridiculousness.  As they say in these parts: TIC (This is China).  I don’t want to explain Chinese vacations in depth, it is depressing and, besides, John of Sinosplice has already done a good job explaining this vacation absurdity.  Suffice it to say that a week long vacation in China only includes the 5 work days and if a weekend is attached to those 5 days then, well, you need to make up those two weekend days by working some other weekend.  Total complete bullsh*t that does nothing to increase productivity and only makes me wish I had learned French.  Those folks have vacations down to a lazy science.  Plus they have cheese and I love cheese.

Shanghai commute

Shanghai commute

Click to continue »

An Update from the End of the Line

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

My pathetic lapse in blogging has been bothering me.  I now have nine days left here in Hunan before I fly back to the States for a month of summer vacation and there is so much I haven’t written about.  Unlike my last weeks in America before a move to China during my last month in China leaving has been on my mind in a big way and wrapping up my life here has been a full time job.  Though, to be sure, it has been a kick ass month.

For the past eight weeks or so my weekends have been spent traveling or hosting friends here in Huaihua.  Certainly a fun, though busy, way to spend one’s time.  On top of that my year of being a volunteer teacher in China ended last week.  The weather in Hunan is now at the Summer levels of heat and humidity characteristic of this sub-tropical region and it can only be described as oppressive.  After an extremely long, rainy and cool Spring the weather was a nice change but now doing anything outside of my air conditioned bedroom during the daytime is a sweaty and exhausting chore.  Even writing this post in my stifling office requires a towel to mop up my sweat.  My computer that has been slowly dying all year long seems even more disabled in this weather.

So, after my long absence here are some things that have happened this month.

My trip to Simeng (思蒙)


Simeng landscape

Almost unknown outside of western Hunan this small “scenic district” is nicknamed Little Guilin for its beautiful carst-like hills that surround a beautiful river and richly forested area full of fascinating plants and birds.  The air was fresh and after a year in a Chinese city being able to breathe deeply and enjoy the smells might just be my favorite memory from this trip.  The hills were made of a stone that is almost exactly like Boston pudding stone, which is all over my neighborhood back home.  I went with two fellow teachers from the grade I teach at my school (senior one).  It was my first time taking an overnight trip with any of my Chinese colleagues and it was a fine time.  My Chinese friends often have the bad habit of trying to help me do anything when I travel with them, even mundane tasks that I can easily handle in Chinese, and this was the case in Simeng too.  But Simeng is a very rural area and the dialect is not easily understood so it wasn’t as annoying as it could have been.  One great reason to travel with Chinese friends is that they open you up to experiences you never would have found on your own and traveling to Simeng, which is located in the Huaihua city Prefecture, was a great example of this for me.  I’ll try and post more pictures online if my computer doesn’t die.

The Gaokao (高考) College Entrance Exam

A little while back I wrote a post about the lack of creativity in the Chinese classroom.  One striking example of the Chinese education system’s disregard for critical thinking, creativity, and outspokenness is the nation college entrance exam known as the Gaokao.  This year it took place on June 7 and 8th in every high school across the country at exactly the same time.  It was my first time seeing the test from the viewpoint of a teacher who works in a Chinese school and there were a few things I noticed.

The school shuts down for the exam.  Anything that would create noise or be a distraction to the students taking the exam is put on hold.  Because of this I had a very nice break from teaching and my students all went home to see their families.  The daily bell system that my school uses to wake everyone up and mark the beginning and end of each class was turned off, the first time ever in over 10 months, and only some calming yoga-like music was played before the students took the exam.  There were about a dozen police officers that joined my school’s security personnel (all of whom were on duty for both days of the exam).  The police officers were mostly there to close down the street in front of the school and make sure there were no outside interferences during the test.  A large section of the campus was cordoned off and only the students taking the test and the test proctors, some of them were not teachers at the school and seemed to be government officials with the education department carrying impressive looking IDs around their necks.  The classroom buildings were decorated with colorful calligraphy to bring good luck to the students.

The students did not wear the school uniform.  I saw them at around seven in the morning and there was a general tenseness in the air that reminded me of my weekend mornings spent taking the SAT.  Unlike the SAT however this test really does determine a large part of their life.  You can only take it up to three times in your life and it decided what university you attend.  You do not pick what school you want to go to in China, you take a test and the government tells you where to go.  Public buses were used to ferry students from other schools and smaller towns to my school so they could take the test.  Some of the kids looked petrified though most were their usual calm selves.  They carried only a small see-through plastic case that held their pencils and what not.  Being found with a cell phone during the test gives you an automatic zero on the section you are taking.  Outside the closed gate anxious parents waited on the sidewalk that was lined with advertisements from private universities.

What was in the test this year?  Danwei did a nice summary of the big essay question found in this year’s test.  In Hunan the students had to write an essay with the title Stand on Tiptoe (踮起脚尖).

At the end of the day the police left, the barricades were lifted and the school looked like it’s old self, just oddly quiet and empty.

My Last Weeks of Teaching

After a year of teaching here in Huaihua this June has been my time to wrap up my year and say goodbye to my students.  During my second to last week of teaching I taught a class on stereotypes, something I have wanted to do all year but somehow put off until now.  Chinese students live in a world where everyone looks the same and because of this and other reasons Chinese students have pretty harsh stereotypes.  I’ve had students often tell me they don’t like so and so because he is black or they think so and so is very beautiful because of her white skin.  When as a teacher in China you admonish a student for saying such things they do not understand why you are angry at them.  Chinese teachers do not help the situation at all.  So I wanted to explain to my students what stereotypes are (they have never heard of the term) and why they can be wrong and harmful.  I think I got through to some of them, but still they can’t really understand the harm of a stereotype.  They’re constantly told all the different minorities of China get along just fine and at the same time they make fun of those same minorities for being different.  Even if they don’t make fun of those who are different there is a strong feeling with the Han Chinese that some people are better than others because of the way they look.

One thing I wanted to bring up was homosexuality.  In the end after talking to some people and thinking about it I did not.  I didn’t want to ask my school if it was okay, I didn’t want to deal with the possible aftermath of such a discussion and I didn’t want to single out the gay students (of which there a few I am aware of).  In the end though I think the biggest reason I didn’t talk about it was because I didn’t want my students to laugh at me and my sexuality.  Having a deep and honest discussion about such a subject is hard with Chinese 15 year olds.

I did however bring up Hitler.  Few Americans know just how loved this man is in China.  Nevermind his empire was a complete failure or that he killed millions and millions of people in mankind’s worst genocide my Chinese students think that he was a great leader and speaker.  A few of my students are fully obsessed with World War II and often show me the books they are reading about the era’s tanks or I find them carefully doodling the Nazi army’s flag in their Engliah textbook.  It’s always disconcerting when you bring up Hitler and a student jumps up and says: “I love him!”  I wanted to teach these kids a thing or two about this monster.  While my students love Hitler they also hold the Jewish people in the highest regard.  When I asked them for stereotypes they had of the Jews I got suggestions like: genius, rich, doctor, beautiful, business leader, and so on.  So I explained Hitler’s hatred of the Jews and how his idiotic stereotypes led to the Holocaust, which my students knew little about.  Still though I don’t it really changed their mind about Hitler’s greatness.  I mean, this is still the country where Mao is idolized after all he did.

My last week of classes was a time to relax and enjoy my last time at the front of the classroom.  Both the students and I took lots of pictures and I will post some of them soon.

Education in China: Creativity in the Classroom

Friday, May 22nd, 2009

Being both a high school teacher here in Huaihua, Hunan and a former Chinese high school student (This was at the Beijing Jingshan school, a public and renowned high school (see some photos from my time there here)) I like to ponder the education system of China.  Now, I know foreigners in China have a nasty habit of constantly thinking about how they would change this or that if they ran, for example, a Chinese school or even China itself – I’m certainly guilty of this sometimes, though I try to keep it to myself – but in regards to education I try to be more of a realist.  There are problems with the education system of China but as a student and now as a teacher I am constantly surprised and excited by the students and teachers.  School administrations, on the other hand, almost never seem to impress me.  My point is that I’m not one way of the other when it comes to China’s education system, there are good things and bad things about it and things that seemingly cannot be changed.  Today I wanted to write about creativity and critical thinking in the classroom and what I’ve learned about Chinese students and their teachers.

School Sports Meeting Huaihua

I’m a big fan of The Atlantic’s former China correspondent James Fallows.  While he may be leaving (already left?) China he still blogs about this country all the time, and always brings up interesting stories and topics.  Recently he’s been writing about the Chinese education system, specifically on the nationwide standardized college entrance examination the Gaokao (高考).  See his collected posts on Chinese education here.  This exam is the only way a Chinese high school student can get into a university, and then only a university chosen by the exam’s controllers (i.e.: the Chinese government).  This is a massive and seriously life altering exam that has a big trickle down effect on how students are taught in high school.  Lately Fallows has been posting the thoughts of both foreigners and Chinese on the exam and it’s effects on the education system.  Very interesting stuff.

By talking about the Gaokao and the ideas of college entrance reform in China Mr. Fallows also brings up the bigger issue of the way Chinese schools educate their students.  This is something I think about everyday while I teach high school students here in Huaihua.  I am a volunteer teacher at my school and this affords me almost no oversight on how I teach.  My classes use no textbook, have no final exam, and almost no one comes in to watch.  This is an odd set up for a foreigner teaching in China and it thankfully lets me teach the way I want to, with due discretion of course.  The thing is still I find myself teaching to students who have very in-the-box (as opposed to outside-the-box) thinking and this affects what I am able to do in the classroom.  There is a clear lack of willingness to be outspoken and creative in the Chinese classroom.

In my class I often have the students group up and work on a project to present to the class.  I always specify that I want creative answers and I try to set the project up so that they have to use critical thinking to complete it.  Yet their final projects usually end up looking the same.

For example this week I’ve been teaching my students about environmental problems the world faces.  While discussing the problems the students answered questions like “where does air pollution come from?” with stock answers they knew: factories (oddly cars never came up until I mentioned them).  Easy stuff.  Then the questions, “why is this bad for the environment?” and “what can we do to help solve this problem?” brought the same by-the-book answers.  They would look in their geography textbook for the right answer and didn’t think through the problems and how they are caused and could be fixed.  Air pollution, my students said every time, could be solved by planting trees and enacting stronger laws against polluting.  The idea that society’s need for cars should be questioned or that we should live with less stuff was rarely brought up.  Every class gave me the same answers, mostly bland simple ones.  Through the week I cheered on the idea of creativity and thinking for themselves but everyone preferred to write the easiest and most basic answers, even my best and brightest English students.  The students wanted to complete the worksheet, the quality of the answers wasn’t a priority.  There were some notably creative answers though, such as moving to Mars or the very Maoist idea of lowering the population through a world war.  While doing the least to achieve a decent grade is the norm for high school students the world over in China there often seems to be no other path taken.  In general my class projects always yield answers that stay well within the lines, and the students are proud and happy with this and don’t quite understand my disapproval with getting the same textbook answer over and over again.

Another example of this was written by a foreign teacher in China and reminds me similar experiences I’ve had with group skits in class.  They write about a class project where the students had to make a radio school skit (check it out here):

My eighth graders had a unit studying the radio, so I asked them to write their own radio shows. I put them in groups and told them to write 3-4 segments, including at least one conversation. Their English is more than good enough for an activity like this, and I did get several good shows, including a show where the news segment had some fake news and ended with the reader telling listeners that “some of this news may be fake, and we are not responsible for what people do after hearing this information”.

I also, however, got an enormous number of segments taken word-for-word from their books or newspapers; news items read directly from something they printed out or a magazine article; etc. Several students attempted to make conversations by having people alternate reading sentences from one of these printouts. The most extreme was when one group took a printout from a radio show and “wrote” it by changing the names. None of this was hidden – they know that I’ve seen the books and newspapers they were quoting from, and sometimes they would show me a magazine article and ask me how to pronounce one of the words. Often they’d understand the very general gist of the story but not the details, and it was very apparent in the way they said the words.

One foreigner teacher wrote on one of Jame’s Fallow’s posts: “I decided that one of the things that stifles creativity in China more than anything else was high school.”  Asking for creativity and critical thinking of my students clearly goes against the grain of the school’s teaching methods.  The textbook is God and us teachers are seemingly just there to whip our students as they plod through every page.  Even the exam essays they have to write for some classes (the best are pasted on the classroom wall) seem to be lifeless arguments they have heard or read elsewhere.  They are given good grades for such work.

I used to teach four classes a week at local elementary schools and one day I saw a teacher admonish a 10 year old student for not making a paper cup music maker exactly as instructed in the textbook.  Unbelievable!  Where I come from teachers usually never even used those stupid textbook projects and certainly never got mad at us over the way we made a class art project.  The same rules apply to English homework.  Never mind that the homework is almost entirely fill-in-the blank multiple choice questions on insignificant minor grammatical points (I can never seem to help my students on these, they want the right answer and I always see the grammar problem as having none), but when they do actually have to write sentences for each chapter’s final “creative” project the instructions have a hold-your-hand attitude that stifles almost any free thinking.

I’m getting a little harsh in my argument.  Chinese students are not uncreative, not at all.  They’re just rarely asked to be so by their teachers and parents.  The goal is always a perfect test score and spending time arguing about a grammatical point or trying out a new self-thought argument in an essay seems wrong when a teacher could just teach the right answer and the student memorize it.  Chinese education has been for a long time and still is a system where students parrot what their teacher teaches them.  At least for the most part.

I should point that due to the Gaokao college entrance examination a students high school grades don’t matter in the end.  If you are a mathematics genius you could fail your math class and still go to a good university.  I know students who have done that, though my students’ parents watch their child’s school grades pretty closely.  The parents even try to bribe us teachers sometimes.  This means that even if a teacher does ask his or her students to think creatively the student doesn’t really need to if they don’t want to.

A few weeks ago one of my classes showed me a video of their class dance routine for a school competition (one of the few times they get out of the classroom).  It was like a bad Backstreet Boys music video, except more lifeless and with everyone wearing matching shirts.  It made a cheerleading routine look like freestyle interpretative dance.  They were extremely proud of their work and had won the competition but I really didn’t see much of any creativity in it.  To them there was a right and a wrong way to do a dance and the line between the two was etched in stone.  Practice and memorization of a strict set of rules seems, to them, the best way to do almost anything.

My students board at the school and fr0m 7:30 AM until 9:30 PM are in a classroom (with short breaks for lunch and dinner).  Their life is incredibly insular and what they learn from us teachers can only be applied to exams in the classroom.  Forget about connecting English to real life (let’s learn about UFOs!) or seeing biology in action outside of reading about it in a textbook.  The fact that their knowledge is only used in getting a test grade severely limits how creative they are in using it.

James Fallows brought up a story in the People’s Daily from this month about the Chinese high school science team that competed at the recent Intel International Science and Engineering Fair.  The Chinese team won some minor honors but failed in to win any big awards.  Mr. Fallows writes:

What’s the problem?  The article discussed some obvious barriers — language, resources — but quoted a number of Chinese authorities saying that the real problem lay in the way Chinese schools taught people to think for themselves — or, didn’t. Too much emphasis on rote, detail, and following procedures; too little encouragement to reflect about the process of discovery.

Yep.

So after months of teaching in this environment of rote memorization and days spent locked in a classroom I was happy to read on Mr. Fallow’s blog that what Chinese students actually want is:

- more of a connection to the real world. They want to have the chance to do community service near their schools, such as tutoring and helping to take care of their elderly, and they also want to take their classes outside of their schools. One of the most impressive examples a student gave me was for an environmental science class being built around an effort to clean up a river, stream, or forest near the school.

- the chance for social development. They want clubs and sports, but they also want things like more free time to spend with their friends, school dances, and for dating to be allowed on campuses. I even had a student say, in full seriousness, that he thought there should be a class teaching students how to interact with the opposite sex.

As an aside, when I was a student at the Jingshan school my American classmates and I tried to start a Friday school dance during lunch.  It lasted all of two weeks before we found ourselves locked out of the gym by the administration, who had never told us that they were against the idea (communication in Chinese schools could be a whole other post).  Dancing and socializing go against the aims of a Chinese school.

I have a lot of hope for the future.  As I see it Chinese education can only get better.  The students I teach don’t make me sad for their future and there are not simply test taking robots, even if that’s the way they are taught.  My days as a student at the Jingshan school in Beijing showed me Chinese teachers (sometimes) making their students think critically and creatively.  While Jingshan is kind of a flagship school for public education in China (and therefore better than most in this respect) I can’t help but think that the pace of development and increasing international competition for Chinese students will bring about change in the way students are taught here.  Here’s hoping!

Photos from Shanghai

Thursday, May 21st, 2009

My trip last weekend had equal parts business professionalism and late night insanity.  After seeing the office of my future internship, located in the swank suit-and-tie filled neighborhood of Xintiandi (新天地), and meeting the people that work there I relaxed and enjoyed the the young glamorous life of Shanghai.

Shanghai
The view from the roof of my hostel. Crazy, no?

Shanghai
A wider view.

Shanghai
A quiet street in Xintiandi. Right next to my future office.

Shanghai
One of the fancy cafes of Xintiandi.

Shanghai
The office building and the little park next to it.

Nanjing street
Nanjing street in the bustling center of the city.

Hong Kong: This Ain’t China Anymore Baby

Saturday, March 21st, 2009

Hong Kong - skyline

Here in Hunan it seems that when the population of “Foreign Experts,” of which I am a certified member of, get antsy and need a change from China Hong Kong often tops the list of weekend getaways.  At least that’s why I first thought about visiting the crazy little super-city to the east of me.  Back in August when I first arrived in Changsha I had dreamed of spending leisurely fun-filled weekends of capitalistic bliss in Hong Kong.  That never panned out.  First off, Hong Kong is not very close to me (I’m in western Hunan unlike the yuppies that live in glamorous Changsha) nor is it anywhere near my volunteer stipend budget.  In fact Hong Kong isn’t really near anyone on Mainland China because of the border crossing (more annoying than expected) and few can afford to have a “leisurely weekend” there, in fact Hong Kongers leave the city for Shenzhen’s cheap thrills and illegal deals all the time.  So is Hong Kong worth it?  Absolutely.

I am a bad tourist (especially in China).  I don’t look up places to go in my travel guide or plan what I will do at all.  My time management is horrible and days slip by unnoticed.  So going to Hong Kong I did little else than wander around and snap a few pictures.  Just being in a clean western-like city was a relief and a wonder.  However there were two goals I had set out for myself before I went: buy real iPod headphones and climb Mount Victoria.  I got the headphones but my friend and I never got to the mountain.  For the three days we were there the peak was perpetually shrouded in clouds fog smog.  Instead we stayed down in the city and ate food and walked around malls, where there are plenty of kick ass bookstores.

Hong Kong - Street scene

I didn’t eat nearly enough Cantonese food.  The Turkish, Indian, and American fare was just too tempting to pass up for someone like me who has been in China for so long.  The most satisfying things to pass my lips were the cup of Ben and Jerry’s strawberry cheesecake ice cream, the many Indian pakoras and samosas I ate in Chungking Mansions, and a red n’ juicy BLT sandwich.

Hong Kong - Multicolored Yams

Hong Kong is a food lover’s paradise.  The way the world’s cuisines sit side by side and everything you could ever want can be found.  It’s almost too good to be true (and the prices reflect that).  I found my all-time worldwide favorite supermarket inside this epic mall.  You can buy baking supplies, American beer, gorgeous Spanish hams, Iranian caviar, French Roquefort cheese, homemade kimchi, tortillas, and a load of Chinese cooking items.  They however had a bad selection of produce, still though walking around that market was eye popping after living here in Huaihua and not being able to buy anything remotely foreign (other than Coke).

Hong Kong also has the freedoms that are lacking here on the mainland and seeing that at work was interesting.  From being able to see American movies in a theater (the govt. strictly restricts the foreign movies than can be seen on the mainland) to people protesting the Chinese Communist Party on the street and vendors selling non-propaganda newspapers and pornography.

All in all I had a blast though the whole experience was far too short and in the future I surely wouldn’t mind living in Hong Kong for a bit of time.  That would be just fine.

Hong Kong Star Ferry

The Splendid Forests of Northern Laos

Monday, March 2nd, 2009

I sitting in the comfy living room of my friend’s Xizhimen apartment in cold dessert that is Beijing in the winter.  I love hanging out in this city, I really really do.  However sitting here letting my mind wander as I relax after a day of subway riding, a enjoyable but exhausting experience, I’m reminded that I need to write of my time spent in northern Laos. 

I’m actually back in Huaihua trying to get a pile of posts to press, though it is cold here and I am thinking about all the pleasures of Laos.

In my last post on my trip to Laos we left off in Luang Prabang, the ancient capital of the Lao kingdom.  I stayed in Luang Prabang for about 4 days mostly just wandering and chilling with my friends from Hunan.  Once everyone left and it was just me eating quiche and walking from temple to temple I decided I should move on.  I booked an overpriced bus ticket and at dawn I left with some other backpackers for the north, the Golden Triangle.

Nine hours later I arrived in Luang Nam Tha.  This city, or rather town, is close to Laos’ border with China and until recently was poverty striken and the source of much of the opium coming out of Laos.  Then the government made Luangt Nam Tha the center of eco-tourism in northern Laos and opened up a national park next door.  Now there are internet cafes, musceli, and cocktails (little old ladies also still push opium but it’s not the profitable business it used to be).  The town is basically one street and closes down around 9:30 at night, but that’s not a problem since the attraction of Luang Nam Tha is getting out into the rain forest that surrounds the city.

Luang Nam Tha Laos

Luang Nam Tha Laos

On my bus ride to Luang Nam Tha I met an Australian from Perth traveling by himself and we ended up splitting a hotel room.  We also both wanted to go hiking in the forest so we went in together to get a guide from the great eco-tourism company Green Discovery.  The eco-tourism of Luang Nam Tha, my first experience with such a thing, is well thought out and expensive.  The money you pay for a guide to take you through the government protected national forest near Luang Nam Tha is split between the guide, villages you pass through, two local cooks who travel with you, and (somehow) protecting and maintaining the forest.  This all added up to $100 for me.  Far more than I have spent across the border in China’s Xishuangbanna for similar hikes, but it was definitely worth it and made me feel (no doubt a little dubiously) that I was helping the communities and forest I walked through.

Luang Nam Tha Laos

So the next morning after a breakfast of fresh tropical fruit and thick syrupy Lao coffee we set off on our hike.  We started by taking a tuk-tuk (small pickup truck with benches welded on the back) to a village about a half hour away from Luang Nam Tha.  The morning was cold and I just tried to stay warm as we whizzed up a windy river past villages and deep thick mountains of forest.  Me and my companion hung out in the village for a bit while our guide russled up some supplies and cooks for the journey.  The local kids were great and were having a blast playing games of their own devising – no TVs or PSPs here.

Luang Nam Tha Laos

Our first day of hiking took us from the village through pristine rain forest.  No farms, rubber plantations, or people to be found anywhere.  It was all gorgeous and a riot of green.  We stopped at a little shelter by a stream for lunch, a fantastic assortment of food made by a local restaurant right before we left.  We had fish, broccoli, cabbage, and homemade chili sauce.  The dense green surroundings were reflected on our table that was covered in banana leaves and banana leaf packages of sticky rice.  In Laos I was continually surprised what people could do with banana leaves.

Luang Nam Tha Laos

The rest of the day’s hiking was pretty short and we arrived at our camp for the night at 3 or so in the afternoon.  While the guide and cooks prepared the kitchen, beds, and camp fire I napped in the sun and went exploring.  I ended up stumbling on a massive cave carved out the side of a cliff and a waterfall right next to it.  I was lovely and my camera was busy taking pictures.  You can see the collected photographs from the trip here.

We had a wonderful dinner cooked at the camp by the two great local women who travelled with us.  Here’s a picture of them and our guide:

Luang Nam Tha Laos

The dinner consisted of several dishes including some stewed meat but for me the clear winner was the Lao chili and tomato condiment or salsa.  This mixture of tomatoes and fresh Thai bird chilies kept popping up wherever I went in Laos and Xishuangbanna (southern Yunnan).  It seems to be a paste of the chillies and garlic mashed in a mortar mixed with very ripe tomatoes and some cilantro.  Asia makes some amazing condiments and this one was one of my all-time favorites.  I must have eaten a soup bowl’s worth of it that night.  Here’s the dinner spread with the tomato/chili paste at the bottom:

Luang Nam Tha Laos

The kitchen:

Luang Nam Tha Laos

The next was much longer than the first.  After splashing some cold stream water on my face and eating some barbecued  water buffalo, which we had cooked the night before on our campfire, we set off.  We climbed up a small mountain and walked along it’s crest.  They’re weren’t any good views of the surrounding country because of the trees, but we did climb up a rock outcropping that afforded some nice views and a much appreciated breeze.

The afternoon was spent hiking through more forest until we hit hills of rubber trees.  The Lao government allows some rubber tree cultivation in the protected national forest because, as our guide told us, otherwise the local villagers would riot.

Luang Nam Tha Laos

Late in the afternoon we arrived back at the village where we has started and said good bye to our cooks.  They gave us traditional spoons made from bamboo, just about the best souvenir one could ask for.  With that we rested our blistered feet and took a tuk-tuk back to town.  The next day I got a bus back to China and arrived in Jinghong, Xishuangbanna.  It was a wild and fantastic week in Laos and I already want to head back.

Many more photos can be found HERE!

Luang Nam Tha Laos

I Love Huaihua

Saturday, December 13th, 2008

For so many reasons.

Sunset in Huaihua, Hunan

The Beijing Olympic Park

Monday, December 8th, 2008

Horribly late but here nonetheless are some photos from my visit to Beijing’s Olympic park in early November.  To get there I took 3 brand new subway lines and upon exiting the station the view I got looked nothing like what I had seen in December 2006 when me and some friends talked our way into the muddy field that surrounded the bird’s nest.  Now the park is one massive square that makes Tian’anmen look quaint.

Beijing Olympic Park

Even though I visited on a Wednesday the place was swarming with tourists (I even saw some Uighurs who seemed very proud), though the only things to eat were instant noodles and Coca Cola.  The architecture provided me with plenty to digest for the hour or so I spent there.

(For the full photography set check out the Flickr page)

Beijing Olympic Park

Beijing Olympic Park

Beijing Olympic Park

Beijing Olympic Park

Beijing Olympic Park

Beijing Olympic Park

My Week in Sichuan: The Road to Tibet

Friday, October 10th, 2008

The Sichuan-Tibet Highway

-Dawn in the Himalayas

The day after our night of food and fun in Chengdu most of our motley group got on a bus to head to Kangding.  Kangding is seven hours west of Chengdu and rests at 2,616 meters above sea level (much higher than Chengdu, which is 500 meters above sea level).  The city is the capital of the Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, a huge swath of mountainous land that makes up most of western Sichuan and is the eastern section of the Himalayan mountains.  Before the People’s Republic of China made Tibet part of China in 1950 the area was called Kham by the Tibetans.  The Kham Tibetans are well known for their skillful use of horses and fighting spirit.  Today Kangding feels Tibetan, but just barely.  It is the jumping off point for the region and being so close to Chengdu it attracts large groups of Han Chinese tourists.  Kangding also holds many many many Han Chinese soldiers, who I’m sure are there to just help the Tibetans enjoy their freedoms in their “autonomous” Prefecture.  Never mind that though, let me return to my journey.

The bus ride to Kangding takes you through deep green gorges and then climbs and climbs up to Himalayan mountains.  We arrived in the late afternoon under an overcast sky that obscured the imposing mountains that surround the city.  I got us to the comfy hostel I had used two years ago when I visited Kangding.  Then we followed the suggestion of a woman at our hostel and went to a Tibetan restaurant downtown for dinner.  The food was FANTASTIC and the room we ate in was beautifully decorated.

Kangding Tibetan restaurant

Click to continue »

Kunming in Photographs

Saturday, September 20th, 2008

Last weekend I traveled back to my old home, Kunming.  Here are a few shots from the trip.  I have more to say but right now I’m catching a bus to Fenghuang (凤凰) to meet some friends.  Enjoy.

DSC_0012.JPG

Click to continue »