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The Fat Years: China, 2013

Tuesday, January 26th, 2010

Just a quick post on the new Chinese novel The Fat Years China 2013 (盛世 中国 2013年) that just came out in Hong Kong.  It was written by a John Chan (陳冠中), a Hong Kong native who currently lives in Beijing.  His novel takes place in the year 2013 when China is in a period of prosperity and general happiness, while at the same time Western countries, lead by America, have fallen into another far more catastrophic financial crisis that has brought destruction to every country in the world other than China.  What will this China of 2013 look like?  In the book the State will have expanded its control over all aspects of the economy and society, all in the name of stability and prosperity.  The main character is a writer from Taiwan who has moved to Beijing and “discovers that a month (filled with rioting and other mayhem) has gone missing out of everyone’s lives…just disappeared.  He sets out to find out exactly what happened.”

It’s being billed as a 1984 for our day and age, a modern day update for George Orwell’s masterpiece.  It has been published in Hong Kong by Oxford University Press and will soon be available in Taiwan, and will, of course, never be officially published in mainland China.  On the Publishing Perspectives blog (where you can also download a detailed English summary of the novel) Marysia Juszczakiewicz of the new Peony Literary agency is quoted as saying:

“The book is reminiscent of Orwell’s 1984 and will not be published on the mainland. Copies have been smuggled in and are available under the counter. There is a buzz on the blogs about it. It think it’s the type of book that really taps into the China of today.”

Over at Global Voices, where I’m first read about this book (via Danwei), they share some of the social conditions of the book as described by Zhang Tiezhi (张铁志) of Taiwan’s China Times newspaper.  The original Chinese can be found here, all translations are taken from Global Voices.

Western countries faced another economic crisis in 2011 and entered a prolonged ‘ice and fire’ period of stagnation.  China, unharmed, becomes even stronger and more confident than today. People are happy, or even ‘high’. The Age of China has arrived.

The main character said: ‘I know China still has a lot of problems. But think about it, the developed capitalist countries, headed by the US, have destroyed themselves. They have only recovered from the 2008 crisis for a few years, and are now in deep troubles again… Only China can spare itself of the crisis… Not only has China rewritten the rules of the global economy, it has also maintained social harmony. You cannot but appreciate this.’

In the year of 2013 described by the book, Beijing’s most important humanities bookshop, Wansheng, has closed down. The important liberal magazine, Southern Weekend, has ceased to exist. You cannot find in any bookstores books about the anti-right campaigns and Cultural Revolution. Newspapers which recorded past periods of social instability are all gone. The few people who insist on having a memory of history are marginalized, or even treated as insane.

Global Voices also translated a “twitter broadcast”, organized by the blogger Du Ting (杜婷), where the author, John Chan, touched on issues of freedom.  These few lines really hit the mark in my mind (again, translations taken from Global Voices):

With the inequality between happiness and freedom, resulting in happiness without freedom, could the world sustain itself naturally? In mainland, we can see that official ‘newspeaks’ are becoming more and more common. In the 1980s, the Chinese society went through a period of self-reflections. Ba Jin spoke out, and spoke the truth. But in these years, we have fallen back. We have lost the freedom to speak the truth.  Why does [the government] become unhappy once the words used are inappropriate? We know that it would be terrible if there are only positive, but no negative, feedbacks. If China only has one voice, it will lose the ability to self-correct. Therefore, freedom is very important.

I bring up this new book not merely because of my serious love for futuristic dystopian novels, but also so people can stop and realize just how murky China’s future is.  When I contemplate why I’m spending so much time living in China and studying its language the one big argument that always comes to mind is: China’s future, whatever it may be, will no doubt be exciting.  Sure the CCP controlled government would have you believe that China’s future will harmoniously progress forward as material prosperity and social stability rise together, but I don’t think any intelligent person who has been reading the news coming out of China would buy into such a rosy and over-simplified future.  Having a new novel out that deals with China’s near future in such a politically dangerous and thought provoking way is very interesting to me and I really want a copy.

The sad state of the internet in China

Wednesday, January 13th, 2010

This post has been in gestation for awhile now.  However, right when I think it’s time to speak about the Chinese government’s pernicious censorship of the internet some new bit of even more saddening news comes out and then yet another, so I kept waiting.  The story of the Chinese internet, especially since the summer of 2008, has been one of endless sorrow.  It’s almost too bad the internet is such a intangible thing.  If what the Chinese government was doing was happening on the streets, rather than secretly in an office room without warning or explanation, people might stand up and care.

I originally wanted to write this post because just last week the Chinese government blocked IMDB (The Internet Movie Database) to all 300 million+ 385 million+ Chinese internet users.  This is simply a piece of pathetic censorship and emblematic of the paranoia that the Chinese government has when it comes to the freedom of speech.  I love movies and since I can’t use Netflix, go to a video rental store or use American cable television I use the Chinese internet and stream whole movies online for free (it is easy to watch and download movies, TV shows, and music for free on the Chinese internet), but I am constantly looking for new movies to watch.  IMDB was always a great way of figuring out what is popular State-side and what movies have come out on DVD.  I don’t think that’s why the government blocked it, probably has more to do with their gargantuan (and unwinnable) fight against pornography.

Then there was this little tidbit of news last month that had every foreigner in China laughing their asses off, before a period of quiet sadness set in as they realized the perilous world they live in.

“Our country’s Internet situation is unique. Compared to all kinds of restrictions in foreign countries, China has the most open Internet in the world.”

«我国互联网形态有特殊性。相对于国外的各种限制,中国的互联网是全世界最开放的。»

- Zhou Xisheng (周锡生) Deputy Chief of Xinhua News Agency, Director-General of Xinhua News Net.

In general the internet in China has since the Spring of 2008 been sliding ever-faster towards a sad world were freedom turns up no search results.  2008 was of course the year of the Olympics and was when we saw the riots in Tibet, with corresponding government censorship and paranoia.  2008 was followed by a new year of even more censorship as Facebook and Twitter were blocked and Xinjiang became (and remains) an internet dead zone after intense riots there.  And as time has gone by the government has silently picked off sites big and small, hiding pieces of the internet from its people.

All of this would be enough to warrant a blog post on any blog that pays attention to China issues, but with this morning’s bombshell of an announcement about Google in China the story of Chinese censorship of the internet has exploded and we all can’t help but take notice.

Early this morning in China, Google posted on its official English blog this: A New Approach to China.

The post starts off by explaining that in mid-December Google’s servers, along with those of a couple dozen other American internet companies, were systematically attacked by someone or something in China that really knew what they were doing.  Google never states that it is blaming the Chinese government but it’s there if you read between the lines.  For Google the attack targeted the Gmail accounts of Chinese human rights activists.  But that’s not all!  The real juice of the post comes towards the end when they write:

We launched Google.cn in January 2006 in the belief that the benefits of increased access to information for people in China and a more open Internet outweighed our discomfort in agreeing to censor some results. At the time we made clear that “we will carefully monitor conditions in China, including new laws and other restrictions on our services. If we determine that we are unable to achieve the objectives outlined we will not hesitate to reconsider our approach to China.”

These attacks and the surveillance they have uncovered–combined with the attempts over the past year to further limit free speech on the web–have led us to conclude that we should review the feasibility of our business operations in China. We have decided we are no longer willing to continue censoring our results on Google.cn, and so over the next few weeks we will be discussing with the Chinese government the basis on which we could operate an unfiltered search engine within the law, if at all. We recognize that this may well mean having to shut down Google.cn, and potentially our offices in China.

Right now this means that Google.cn is uncensored for the first time ever (check out those cute pictures of the Dalai Lama!) (1/25: Google.cn has continued to be censored since the blog posting).  In Beijing Chinese citizens are laying flowers outside Google’s China headquarters.  A friend of my colleague just emailed her saying that Google management at the Beijing headquarters has told employees to not come to work starting tomorrow. (1/25: These rumors about the office closing seem to have been nothing but rumors.)

Google, like so many other useful and righteous websites will soon no longer be accessible in the People’s Republic of China.  As someone who uses Google search, Gmail, and Google Reader every single day, this is not good news.  Some are rightly pointing out that Google was never going to become the no.1 search engine of China (that belongs to China’s own Baidu.cn) and that Google never made a lot of money in China, so bowing out of China was not as difficult a decision as it could have been.  Nevertheless, this announcement is epic.  Foreign companies never go after the Chinese government like this.  American companies actually bend over backwards to do business here, even if that means ignoring issues like freedom of speech or privacy.

I can’t help but applaud Google’s actions.  Not only are they living up to their mantra of “Don’t be evil”, but they are also confronting the Chinese government the way no one else seems to be doing.  That said, people in China are really sad today.  Here in my office Google is the search engine of choice and my colleagues are not happy that they will have to let it go now.  Me, I’m horribly sad to see Google go (though I have the power to jump over the Chinese government’s Great Firewall), but as an American who holds certain freedoms in high regard and as someone who lives in China I am thankful that someone is standing up.  I really liked what Jeremy Goldkorn, of Danwei, published in the Guardian today:

The fallout will be interesting. I can’t recall a single case of a major international company with operations in China taking a stand like this. As someone who agreed with Google’s reasoning when it entered China, I also support this move. If it cannot operate here in accordance with its global standards, it should leave. I have given up on getting my own website unblocked by the government and am resigned to the fact that it’s only accessible to people who are outside China or know the technical tricks to get over the Great Firewall.

I’d rather be outside the wall and free than inside it with the icy hand of the censor around my throat.

This has been really big news today and seems to only get bigger as the day goes on.  Looking at my Google Reader feeds of China blogs, it seems that the vast majority have already posted something about this news.  Twitter, which is blocked in China, has been glowing with people’s comments on the issue (check out China Digital Times collection of interesting tweets).  Of course, the government here seems to be blocking information of the announcement left and right.  Still, the news is traveling fast along office corridors and between friends on the street and people sitting next to each other in internet cafes across the nation, censorship of the internet is being talked about like I’ve never seen before.  And that, my fellow internet users, is something we should be thankful for.

Mourners laying flowers at Google's China headquarters in Beijing.  January 13, 2010

Mourners laying flowers at Google's China headquarters in Beijing. January 13, 2010

Some further reading on the subject:

Imagethief
James Fallows (The Atlantic)
More photos of people bringing flowers to Google’s China headquarters
Global Voices Online
The Peking Duck
Shanghaiist
China Hearsay

More Obama in China News

Friday, November 20th, 2009

obamagugong

He came and he left.  President Obama’s first visit to China happened this week and unless you were not reading the news you probably already knew that.  While the American newspapers covered his trip here and Fox News entertainers were no doubt discussing it on cable I think I can safely say it was a much bigger deal over here, even if the coverage was not as complete as it was in the foreign press.  The Chinese people love Obama.  His Presidency is historic and an affirmation of everything that is good about American democracy; he’s handsome, speaks beautifully in clear language that English learners over here can understand, and he is not George W. Bush.  The Chinese government were not unaware of Obama’s stardom and they sought to use it to there advantage while making sure that Obama didn’t lecture China on human rights, Renminbi revaluation, and Iran sanctions.  In this respect the Chinese government was by and large successful.

For me, the President’s visit was just a nice treat.  The day that he was here in Shanghai was comforting in a way, it was nice having my government’s leader here.  I was a senior in college during Obama’s primary fight against Hilary Clinton and then I left before the final few months leading up to the actual election a year ago.  I was in Beijing for Obama’s win over McCain, when the financial markets took their worst dives I was enjoying the air on the Himalayan plateau in western Sichuan and when he gave his amazing Inaugural speech I watched it from a smokey Chinese internet bar in Xishuangbanna, right over the border from Laos.  The first time I stepped foot in an America with Obama as President was this July, a few days before July 4th.  It was satisfying in a way that he took a few days to come over here to my home, even if it was a stilted and choreographed trip.

During the whole time Obama was in China (and the lead up to it and the aftermath) there was a deluge of newspaper articles, blog posts, tweets, news broadcasts, podcasts, conversations, photographs, and gossip that anyone interested enough could partake in.  I was reading and watching everything related to his trip (at least as much as I could) and now I am tired.  So if you wanted a blog post glowing blue with hyperlinks to every pertinent and interesting thing on the internet about his trip you’re going to have to look elsewhere.  And man are there many places to look!  My blogroll seems to have disappeared when I uploaded this new design so you’ll have to be a bit creative.  I will say that The China Beat has a blog post up that links to a wide and thorough selection of readings on the President’s trip, though please don’t think of this as anything more than the very tip of the iceberg.

I would like to give you, my handsome and intelligent reader, some observations and thoughts.  After the President’s speech in Tokyo, in which he spoke about his thoughts toward China, he flew to my home: Shanghai.  He arrived here just after midnight during some of the coldest and rainiest weather we’ve had this season.  Chinese netizens were, apparently, happy to see that the President carried his own umbrella.  Here in China, where powerful men project their power and prestige in many gaudy ways, leaders often have people hold umbrellas for them.  I guess Obama got a few hours rest in Shanghai’s Portman Ritz Carlton before waking up early for his daily exercise.

He had breakfast with Shanghai’s mayor, Han Zheng.  Preisdent Obama then drove to Shanghai’s Museum of Science to host a town hall style meeting with Chinese students.  I watched the exchange on the White House website, which had a good quality video stream of the event that wasn’t blocked in China.  CNN International and a couple local Shanghai stations broadcast the meeting as well, though there was no nationwide broadcast and most Chinese people did not get to see Obama answer questions.  At approximately 12 noon he got on stage with Ambassador Huntsman, who gave a short speech in Chinese and English.  Obama then gave his opening remarks.  He mentioned that there are universal human rights that don’t apply only to Americans but everyone on the planet.  The right to practice religion and air one’s thoughts were brought up.

The question and answer period was a dud.  The students that Obama took questions from, he referred to them as “the future leaders of China” or something to that effect, were actually almost all Communist Youth League leaders and one was a teacher.  All had been hand picked by the Communist Party.  On a side note, the Chinese President, Hu Jintao, rose to power through the ranks of the Communist Youth League, which incidentally all Chinese elementary students are enrolled in (in middle school they choose if they want to stay), and his power base is often considered to be connected to the organization.  The questions pretty much all sucked and there were even two questions on the same topic (the Nobel Peace prize), Obama’s answers were likewise guarded and diplomatic.  Obama did take one question (read by Ambassador Huntsman) that had been posted on the U.S. Embassy’s website; the question was regarding the Great Firewall of China, which the government uses to control what people in China can look at on the internet, blocking sites such as Facebook and Twitter.  Obama explained why he doesn’t himself use Twitte and why he thinks that this censorship is bad: “I support non-censorship.”  His answer was initially posted online on Chinese news sites but was then taken down later.  After one hour of speaking and 7 questions Obama left and flew to Beijing.  He was in my home of Shanghai fora little over 12 hours.

In Beijing Obama stayed at the Diaoyutai (Fishing spot) Guest house, a hotel on fancy State-owned grounds near the center of the city.  During the Cultural Revolution this is where Madame Mao, Jiang Qing, the architect of some of that period’s worst atrocities, stayed (Mao always slept by himself, often by his private pool).  President Obama had a nice meal there with President Hu, Ambassador Huntsman, and Secretary of State Hilary Clinton.

Obama in China (Youth Daily) 奥巴马在中国 (青年报)

登罢长城  结束访华

Obama Climbs the Great Wall to Finish China Visit

“我从这里带走的是对中国文明的钦佩,带走的是美国人民的问候。”

“From this trip I have gained a deep admiration of Chinese civilization and have brought the greetings of the American people.”

In Beijing he hit up the must see tourist spots, this was after all his first visit ever to China.  He saw the Forbidden City (see the photo at the top of this post) and walked on the Great Wall.  The above image was on the front page of yesterday’s 青年报 (China Youth Daily).  His last night included a massive super-elaborate state dinner at the Great Hall of the People.  He listened to such hits as “We are the world” and “I just called to say I love you.”  One of the numbers was sung by a group of American students studying in China.  Everyone drank Great Wall red wine, 2002 vintage, a horrible, horrible beverage which I sometimes drink myself (a $4 bottle of wine is just right when it comes to price!).  The country’s 7 o’clock evening news (possibly the world’s most popular news program) gave Obama’s visit almost 20 minutes of the half hour show, the previous day’s town hall meeting had been given about half a minute, I think.  In Beijing Obama also met with his half brother (they share the same father) who lives in Shenzhen in southern China and plays Jazz music.

All good things come to an end and eventually Obama left China for South Korea.  It was nice having him here, even if it wasn’t a solid win for the United States government.  Some fellow American expats here in China seem to think that the whole event was bland, largely useless and showed that China doesn’t look up to the U.S. anymore.  I don’t agree with all of that.  Obama is a crafty diplomatic kind of guy, so to expect some kind of cowboy presidential antics from him are unrealistic, and given the situation our country is in right now (economic turmoil, two wars, massive debt with China, blah blah blah) I think Obama did a great job.  Plus, I was glad he was nice to his guests and left the country without people hating our government.  It pays to have a President that the Chinese people love, and we don’t have to cash in on that just yet.

President Obama is Coming to China!

Saturday, November 14th, 2009

Obama Chinese Magazine

“China and I have a destiny” (via Richard Gould’s Flickr)

My Japanese roommate and I just sat down to watch President Obama’s speech given at Suntory Hall in Tokyo earlier today.  We both agreed that it was a fantastic speech, plus he speaks so elegantly and clearly she had no problem understanding his English.  It is relieving to have a President that makes us Americans look so good.  And for those Americans who like me are making a living in Asia, it was also a great affirmation that our government wants to work with our old allies of the region along with China for a better future both economically and politically.  One line in particular stood out as a good omen of things to come:

“I know there are many who question how the United States perceives China’s emergence.  In an interconnected world, power does not need to be a zero-sum game, and nations need not fear the success of another.”

Outside of Japan and China he has vowed to be the first American President to meet all 10 leaders of Asean, the Association of Southeast Asian Nations, which would include the member from Myanmar – a country controlled by a military dictatorship.  I am a big supporter of this move and hope that America can get more involved with Asean in the future, it is one of the world’s international organizations that is going to become vastly more important in the decades to come.  A video of the speech can be seen here at the New York Times’ article of the event.  I highly recommend it.

Even though he talked up America’s relations with China in Tokyo today, we here in Shanghai are excitedly awaiting his arrival in our city tonight tomorrow.  Though his stay in Shanghai will be very short and is not going to include any time when I (or other Americans) can see him, I’m still pumped.  He will be meeting with the mayor of Shanghai, Han Zheng, and then will host a town hall-style meeting with a group of Chinese university students before flying up to Beijing for dinner with Chinese President Hu Jintao.  Unfortunately that town hall meeting is up in the air right now and looks like it may be canceled under the weight of severe limitations being imposed by the Chinese government.  That’s really a shame since that meeting would be the only time Obama could speak with the Chinese people directly on his trip.  I’m not exactly sure how the Chinese government expects to look if it does in fact cancel the meeting.  President Obama is hugely popular in China (try asking a Chinese person what they think of Obama compared to their own President) and if the meeting is canceled then it would look like the Chinese government is trying to hide the President from its own people.  It may just end up that the meeting is heavily censored and that the full minutes of what was discussed will never be seen by the media (except for those working in CCTV, of course).  But that seems just as bad…

In other more lighthearted news regarding our President’s visit to Shanghai, President Obama and his wife Michelle Obama will be staying at the Portman hotel in downtown Shanghai.  It is a swanky looking spot and is located on Nanjing Xi road, possibly the most important and famous road in the city.  I sometimes go shopping in the American supermarket located in the basement of this building, so rest assured if the Presidnent needs Pop Tarts they will be within easy reach.  From my top secret sources living in the Portman I have also learned that the gym will be closed for two days and that certain hotel and residence guests will be moved to the Four Season’s hotel.  So if anyone living there had dreamed of running into the President at the gym and having a game of pick-up basketball, well that just won’t happen.  The Shanghai Urbanatomy Blog has also obtained a memo given to residents of the Portman apartments explaining the increased security precautions.

There’s also the question of whether or not President Obama will see his half-brother Mark Okoth Obama Ndesandjo during his visit, this seems highly unlikely though nonetheless an interesting tangent.  Mark Okoth Obama Ndesandjo has lived in Shenzhen for the past 10 years playing jazz, he has the same father as President Obama.  He will soon release his own book, a piece of fiction that is highly autobiography titled “Nairobi to Shenzhen,” which details his father’s violent and angry parenting history and how he came to China.

And while we are talking about Obama, there is the interesting controversy over the change in his Chinese transliteration that the American Embassy seems intent on going forward with.  Until now his name in Chinese has always been 奥巴马 (aobama), but now the American Embassy wants his name to be written 欧巴马 (oubama).  I am a big fan of the original spelling (I campaigned for the President using this transliteration in Burlington, Vermont during the campaign (yes, I realize there almost no Chinese people live in Burlington)).  For more information on this Danwei has done a great translation and write up of a Chinese article detailing the controversy.

Campaigining for Obama

Me campaigning for 奥巴马 on the streets of Burlington with other geeky Chinese loving Obama supporters.

Oh, and check out this nifty video of how Chinese people in Beijing are getting ready for President Obama’s arrival.  The video includes a flaming Obama statue and Obama style haircuts.  The English edition of Global Times (an offshoot of the newspaper The People’s Daily, the CCP mouthpiece) has published a collection of reactions to President Obama’s visit from people in China.

Now it’s time I go out and celebrate my President’s arrival by dancing with my American friends to some awesome reggae spun by the famous Chinese-Jamacian DJ Clive Chin.  Later.

Update: Our biggest lender tells us some scary things and we seem to hit back, before the President ever speaks in China: “China’s Role as Lender Alters Dynamics for Obama.”  Washington Post: “‘Strategic reassurance’ that isn’t.”

China’s National Day Parade

Thursday, October 1st, 2009

The Chinese National Day Parade 2009

The parade of the century is over.  There is a beautiful blue sky over Beijing, it is in fact nothing short of a perfect Beijing day.  In Shanghai, however, it’s overcast and raining hard.  Not a problem for me, I’m sick in bed and it’s better that it rains when one is sick than the other way around.  But in Beijing everyone is healthy and walking under a beautiful blue sky.  Keep in mind, the Chinese Air Force put a lot of time and effort into making this blue sky; last night they blew up special bombs over Beijing to dissipate any clouds that might be forming.  One must remember that the Communist Party of China decides the what the weather will be like.

I missed the beginning of the parade, when the flag was raised, precise groups of fighter jets and helicopters flew over the capital, and President Hu Jintao inspected endless rows of perfect soldiers and their heavy machinery.  Lucky for me the whole thing is on repeat on almost every channel, so I haven’t missed anything.

After the flag raising President Hu rolled down the avenue of Eternal Peace standing in his Red Flag limousine (the same kind Mao Zedong rode around in) for his inspection of the military.  He passed the Grand Hyatt hotel, a Mercedes Benz dealership, a Tiffany’s store (all closed and evacuated), and absolutely no spectators that weren’t either in the military or invited by the government. It was weird seeing the empty sidewalks around Tian’anmen square, what kind of parade doesn’t have people on the sidewalks?  As he inspected the very good looking soldiers I couldn’t help but gush over the turquoise blue missile carriers, it’s probably the young boy in me that gets a kick out of fabulously colored military equipment.  He kept screaming 同志们好!(Hello Comrades!) at the soldiers, and nothing more.  By the looks of it China could invade Taiwan and Japan still have enough people and equipment left over to leave a kick-ass army back home to defend the motherland.  Of course, as they kept saying, China is working to bring about world peace.  Forgive me, goosestepping soldiers and nuclear missiles make me think of another time.

After the fighter jets and President Hu’s military inspection the actual parade began.  It started with more perfect goosestepping soldiers, bright tanks and scary looking missile carriers.  Then the parade morphed into something that wasn’t a militaristic display of power but rather a happier and more upbeat display of the greatness of today’s China.  At first it reminded me of another autumn parade: The Macy’s Thanksgiving Day parade.  But how can a parade of 200,000 people showing the glory and power of socialism be in the same category as Macy’s parade?  Plus the plastic smiles and stiff spectators weren’t really reminiscent of Macy’s parade.

The show was impressive my anyone’s measuring stick.  It seemed endless and was synchronized to a degree that I had, until now, believed could only be accomplished by robots.  It was colorful too, with red and yellow being the most prevalent.  On TV we largely viewed the parade from the viewpoint of the country’s leaders (interestingly, I only saw one woman standing with them).  They all stood on Tian’anmen gate, where Mao Zedong had proclaimed the founding of the People’s Republic of China 60 years ago today.  Navy blue suits and red ties were a popular fashion choice among these big wigs, only President Hu wore the classic Mao suit (it’s actual name is the Sun Yat-sen suit, but for today let’s forget that).  The camera often focused on Jiang Zemin and President Hu, but almost as often we got a nice picture of Xi Jinping, who is speculated to be the next President of China.  It seems these things are decided far in advance.  This may not be true after all.

After all the tanks and missiles went by we got to see the floats and all the costumed dancers.  Somewhere in this quilted river of vibrating color were some friends of mine.  I’d like to say I could see them, but then again the whole point of the parade isn’t to see the individual.  My favorite part was the long line of province floats.  Each province had a float that showed off it’s splendor and what it’s famous for, often in a stereotyped fashion (coconut palms for Hainan!).  It was one of the only parts that made me really happy and abundantly proud of the country.  Somehow seeing the floats for the places I’ve lived and being able to understand the Chinese commentator’s words made me excited.  As a special treat there was even a Taiwan float (the PRC government considers Taiwan to be a rebel province).  My apologies to my Chinese friends, armies (whether American or Chinese) always put me off in a way and it’s hard to get excited about a float devoted to the construction of a new generation of rural villages.

The grandest show in the world ended with about ten thousand children letting go of big red balloons and rushing Tian’anmen gate screaming while the words 明天更美好 (Tomorrow will be even better!) were spelled out in massive yellow characters behind them on Tian’anmen square.  It was a nod to the bright future of China and it’s children.  It was cool watching the balloons float over the square and hearing the happy children scream, nonetheless the whole parade never made me think of China’s bright future.  In my eyes, the parade more than anything else seemed to make China’s government look old and dated. This is what I came away with from this awe-inspiring display of China’s unity and power.  For one, the overwhelming military presence, the over 100,000 synchronized students waving colorful fans, and Chinese characters as large as buildings that spelled 社会主义好 (Socialism is good!) on Tian’anmen square all brought to mind the old Soviet Republic and today’s North Korea.  The floats weren’t exactly futuristic, either.  There was great fanfare about the future development of science education and the happiness of the country’s 56 official ethnic minorities, but it didn’t really make China look like a country going forward.  Rather it seemed like a loving display of China’s gloried past and and affirmation that China is happy where it is and that reform is unnecessary.

I’m proud of China and it’s people today.  Regardless, this parade was never meant for me, it was meant for them.  As long as they’re happy then it was a success, that’s what’s important here.  Everyone celebrates their nation’s bithday differently and this celebration was about as Chinese as you can get.  Now I’m going to pop some Tylenol and lie in bed so I can be ready to watch the fireworks display tonight.

The Inauguration of Presideant Barack Obama

Wednesday, January 21st, 2009

(Source: New York Times)

Even though I am in distant Jinghong I went head first into the historical inaugural festivities last night.  I was not about to miss the moment just because it wasn’t on TV here and because there is a dearth of Americans in the area.  However it turned out that watching the inauguration online here was no easy feat.  I had hoped to us the CNN/Facebook live feed, which allowed you to see what other people on Facebook were thinking while you watched, but I was never able to make that work here in Jinghong.  I was, however, close to Facebook all night and updated my status an obscene number of times.  It was a day to feel close to my American friends, no?

My night officially started at the George and Dragon Pub where I tried their wifi connection, no dice.  Then on my way to a internet bar I stopped at the Mei Mei Cafe to try their connection, that didn’t work either though their hamburger was mighty tasty.  I finally ended up in a smokey internet bar filled with, oddly enough, young women screaming at each other while they video chatted with guys in other parts of China.  Even there the connection sucked and I wasn’t able to use the CNN feed.  At the last minute before Biden was sworn in I thought I might have better luck with Yahoo, since they’ve been in China a long time.  And would you believe it I was right!  While the quality sucked and there was an echo the whole time I was able to see the swearing in and Obama’s speech.  I got back to my hostel around 2 am.

This morning the world was still abuzz from the historical moment:

Thomas Crampton compiled a collection of Asian frontpages proclaiming the news.

Reuters tells us that the main Chinese web portals (Sina, Sohu, and others) reworded Obama’s inaugural speech cutting out the bit on defeating communism and governments that stifle dissent.  (A Chinese translation of the speech in its entirety and uncensored can be found on Phoenix TV – Via Shanghaiist)

There is a cool satellite image of the inauguration floating about the internet as well.

In the fashion world… BryanBoy blogged about Michelle Obama’s day dress and her green shoes.

As you can tell I’ve been having a very lazy morning here.

Geithner: Our New Chinese Speaking Treasury Secretary

Tuesday, November 25th, 2008

Have you been following the developments of President-elect Obama’s Cabinet?  I have.  Recently Obama announced who will be in his economic team, the people who will have to get us out the immeasurably deep hole we are all sitting in.  The new Treasury secretary, Timothy Geithner, will have the Herculean task of orchestrating the bailout and whatever stimulus package Obama will be giving us (The New York Times reports).

Timothy Geithner is the relatively young president of the Federal Reserve Bank of New York and as you might know has been the, “primary engineer of the government’s response to the recent financial meltdown.”  But did you know that his childhood was spent all over the world, including in Zimbabwe, India and Thailand?

When he went to Dartmouth for his undergraduate degree, class of 1983, he had a double major in government and Asian studies along with a concentration in Chinese.  While he was at Dartmouth he even worked as a Chinese language drill instructor, was reportedly a very good speaker of the language, and studied abroad in Beijing.  An Asian studies major?  Chinese instructor?  I had no idea!  My mom will be happy to hear that my choice of undergraduate major means I’m in good company.  If you want to learn more you should definitely read this article from The Dartmouth.

This all makes me wonder, what other famous people were Asian studies majors while in college?  I do know that the actor Edward Norton majored in Asian history and minored in Japanese at Yale (short biography here).  I learned that little fact in the summer of 2005 while living in Beijing, where I was offered the job of being Mr. Norton’s stand-in, the guy who stands in for the actor while camera operators take light readings, for the filming of the movie The Painted Veil, a historical drama that takes place in China during the Chinese civil war.  Other than these two men I’m at a loss for what other famous people studied Asian studies.

My Week in Beijing and Obama’s Victory

Tuesday, November 18th, 2008

I arrived in Beijing by plane, a luxury I still haven’t forgiven myself for indulging in.  Regardless, the ride was a magnificent and allowed be to rest in peace after the drenched Halloween party I went to in Changsha (it was raining).  All I need say about that is: Baijiu (白酒)+water cooler = awesome party idea.

Once I arrived in Beijing I was immediately at ease and in complete awe.  My plane docked at the airport’s brand new terminal 3, the worlds largest building.  I’m not kidding, it really is the world’s largest building.  Then I took a surprisingly easy and comfortable express bus into town.  Beijing felt, at times, like a completely different city from what I knew and loved back in 2004.  When it didn’t seem new and different it seemed like a better version of its old self.  There is a lot of talk about how Beijing is destroying itself far too quickly and selling itself out to mimic the concrete corporate blandness that is now easily found all over the world.  This is true and I strongly disagree with the ways the government has reshaped Beijing, but man is Beijing a nice city these days!

Every one of the construction projects that were going on during my stays in 2004 and 2005 had been completed, most importantly the several new subway lines and the Olympic park.  Walking around I was ecstatic for Beijing.  The socialist austerity that was still visible in 2004 is losing ground every day, replacing it is a new capitalist cosmopolitan metropolis of culture and business.  Sure the Hutongs are basically all gone and signs of Beijing’s long fascinating history (legitimate signs of history, ie: not fake) are on their way out, but I never lived in a Hutong and neither do most Beijingers.  Life is good in Beijing, really really good.

I arrived at sundown and took a picture of the sun setting from the airport.  On my ride into town I saw how much the city has changed.  It seems like roads that were once flanked by simple buildings of little stature are now wider and lined with such impressively tall buildings that you sometimes feel like you are riding a tunnel into the future.  I passed the new and almost-complete CCTV building, a building so insane and awesome it will change what people consider to be an awe-inspiring skyscraper.  Check it out:

CCTV Building

Click to continue »

Wen Jiabao Speaks with CNN

Friday, October 17th, 2008

Wen Jiabao

Don’t know how I missed this story.  My favorite member of China’s present day rulers and a man much loved by the Chinese, Premier Wen Jiabao, sat down to an interview with Fareed Zakaria of CNN.  I first spotted this story on the Zhong Nan Hai Blog, itself a good read.  The interview includes bits on the economy, human rights, the Great Firewall of China, and Tibet.  Not wholly satisfying but still more than Chinese leaders usually say.

Zhon Nan Hai Blog Post on the Interview

Video of the Interview & Transcript Part 1 (CNN)

Video of the Interview Part 2 (CNN)

Kesha Ram is Running for Office!

Friday, September 26th, 2008

(Video link -Click here!!)

My former classmate and UVM Student Government President Kesha Ram is running to be a representative in the Vermont State Legislature (Chittenden 3-4 District).  And she’s only 22!  Kesha is an absolutely amazing woman and while we were in school together at the University of Vermont she inspired me with her intelligence, organizational skills, friendliness, and sheer force of will (she gets stuff done, for real).  In this year, when we have one of the best candidates for President we’ve had in oh-so-long, of course I refer to Barack Obama, Kesha Ram is the kind of inspired youthful change that Mr. Obama calls on Americans of my generation to give.  I wish her the best of luck and no matter where you live please remember to vote.

This video was made by her campaign and then picked up by the folks over at MTV and, I am told, by the Associated Press and Yahoo.  If you are worried that people my age (ie: college students and the like) are lazy and uninterested in politics you should definitely  watch this video.

Kesha Ram’s Campaign Website

Kesha’s MTV Video

Barack Obama, Bernie Sanders, and Kesha Ram speak at the University of Vermont – March 2006

Obama and McCain’s Views on China

Monday, September 15th, 2008

I just got back from a few days in Kunming and should really write about that, but until then here is some more about the U.S. election!

Through the Shanghaiist Blog I just read two briefs given out by the McCain and Obama campiagns regarding what their U.S.-China relations would look like if they were to become President.  These briefs were published by the American Chamber of Commerce.  They are in fact very similar sounding plans which give little insight, but they are all we American expats in China can go by.  Certainly they deserve your time more than the plentiful articles on Sarah Palin do.

Obama’s:

In the coming years, the United States and China face challenges that require fresh thinking and a change from the US policy approach of the past eight years. How the US and China meet these challenges, and the extent to which we can find common ground, will be important both for our own countries and for others in Asia and beyond.China has achieved extraordinary, sustained growth over the past three decades. Hundreds of millions of people in China live better now than most thought possible even two decades ago.

But as China’s leaders acknowledge, China must make some basic adjustments if it is to continue sustained, shared economic growth. China must develop practices that are more environmentally sustainable and less energy intensive, that boost domestic consumption as an engine of growth, that enhance the social safety net, and that encourage indigenous technology innovation. Otherwise, the country’s future performance may fall well short of its potential.

McCain’s:

The resurgence of Asia is one of the epochal events of our time. It is a renaissance that is not only transforming the face of this vast region, but throwing open new opportunities for billions of people on both sides of the Pacific—Americans and Asians alike—to build a safer, more prosperous and freer world.

Seizing these opportunities, however, will require strong American leadership and an unequivocal American commitment to Asia, whose fate is increasingly inseparable from our own. It requires internationalism rather than isolationism, and global trade rather than national protectionism. When our friends and allies in the Asia-Pacific region think of the future, they should expect more—not less—attention, investment and cooperation from the highest levels of the US government.

A central challenge will be getting America’s relationship with China right. China’s double-digit growth rates have brought hundreds of millions out of poverty, energized the economies of its neighbors and produced manifold new economic opportunities. The US shares common interests with China that can form the basis of a strong partnership on issues of global concern, including climate change, trade and proliferation. But some of China’s economic practices, combined with its rapid military modernization, lack of political freedom and close relations with regimes like Sudan and Burma, tend to undermine the very international system on which its rise depends. The next American president must build on the areas of overlapping interest to forge a more durable US-China relationship.

More Links:

China Rises McCain and Obama on China

 

Fortune Cookies Are Not Chinese

Friday, August 29th, 2008

Saw this funny video of Chinese people reacting to fortune cookies on Jennifer 8’s Fortune Cookie Cronicles Blog. She has published a book with that name as well. Fortune cookies are in fact from Japan. After yesterday’s food focused entry my mind has been on Chinese food in a big way. Tonight I’m making the meal I was supposed to make last night: fragrant and spicy spare ribs along side eggplant stir fried with long beans. Should be tasty.

Lest I forget, I must also give my heartfelt congratulations to Barack Obama and Joe Biden on their nomination. It truly was an amazing final night (morning here in China) of the Democratic National Convention. I never before enjoyed one so thoroughly. Big thanks to the internet, which allowed me to enjoy the festivities here on the other side of the planet in a rural Chinese city. Too bad I don’t live in Beijing, Shanghai, or Guangzhou where there were organized parties for Americans wanting to watch his acceptance speech.

Later tonight I’ll get a post on my recent travels up on the blog.

28 Days Till China

Monday, April 24th, 2006

My friends away message just reminded me that I have less than a month until we leave for Beijing. For now though, my finals loom.

“不是那边“: Hu Jintao visits Bush: